Review: the luxe Market Cafe serves up down-to-earth Thai dishes

When it comes to Thai food, the newly-opened Market Café within the Hyatt Regency Bangkok Sukhumvit does not compromise on vivid flavours. More really is more here, particularly pertaining to the use of spices and locally market-sourced ingredients. The venue also boasts an elegant, dimly-lit setting that elevates the sumptuously down-to-earth Thai fare into something more of a fine-dining experience (but without the arguably overrated use of foie gras and caviar).

And although the all-day dining restaurant opens with a breakfast buffet, it offers a range of regional Thai dishes throughout the entire day. We had the privilege of indulging in their signature dishes recently. Read on for our full review to get a glimpse of Market Cafe.

Ambience

Stepping into Market Cafe is like walking into a modernised version of your grandma’s old-school kitchen. First thing you’ll encounter is the open kitchen where cooks busily whip up their meals, making melodious sounds with spatulas cranking up the pans. Decorated throughout with Thai-style paintings and antique copper kitchenware, the venue exudes a vintage charm that comforts you right up. The use of contemporary furnitures like vibrant lounge chairs and a mix of French-style equipment in the kitchen also accentuates the space with a French glamour that enchants the room with a sense of luxury.

Food

Classic Thai dishes always take full advantage of the markets’ booming seasonal produce. And that’s exactly what Market Cafe is doing. The outlet incorporates heavy use of ingredients found in the city’s markets, following the mission after its name. After a read through the menu that lists mostly unknown and under-appreciated Thai dishes, you’ll see Market Cafe’s intention in embracing traditional Thai cuisine to the fullest by not only including the classic Thai popular fare like pad thai and tom yum, but lesser known Thai dishes too.

The food here is best enjoyed in a family-sharing style which is considered typical in Thai dining culture. So on our visit, we went right on with a feast of many sharing dishes. The first one we gorged on was the highly addictive Peek Gai Tod Jaew (THB 180) where the deep-fried chicken wings get glorious glazing of caramelized spicy sauce followed by a sprinkling of toasted sticky rice for extra crunch.

Next up was Yum Som-O Goong (THB 200), a Thai pomelo salad featuring a mix of refreshing fruit and savoury elements like river prawns and chilli which are then bound together by a sweet and sour sauce.

We then headed South in the next dish of Pu Phad Pong Ka Ree (THB 400) where fat chunks of crab meat swam happily in the umami-packed curry thickened with eggs.

It surely wouldn’t be a complete Thai feast without a chilli-laden curry. We then cosied up with Gang Pu Bai Cha Plu (THB 380) consisting of a betel leaf-based curry and generous portions of crabmeat.

And although the venue serves up delectable Sen Yai Phad Kee Mao Talay (THB 200), an aromatic seafood drunken noodle, another similar dish worth mentioning here also is their Sen Yai Phad Kapi Goong (THB 170), where the rice noodles are seasoned with pungent yet scrumptious shrimp paste. But if shrimp paste is not down your alley, pad thai or drunken noodles will be your safe bet.

Verdict

Unbeknownst to many, Market Cafe, which appears to be like a fine-dining spot is actually a Thai comfort food enclave. It is unlikely that you’ll find fusion Thai food at this spot since the cooks here are more proud to serve you traditional and lost-in-time Thai dishes enjoyed by everyone. Those hankering for comfort-filled, no-nonsense Thai dishes in a luxe, elevated and unpretentious setting, Market Cafe sure will be your safe option.

Market Café, 1, Sukhumvit Soi 13, Bangkok, +66 2 098 1346
Open: Mon-Sun, 10:30 am-10 pm.