Review: the new tasting menu at Haoma, an urban farm restaurant in Bangkok

Tucked away in a Sukhumvit alley, Haoma is ideal for a romantic date, a small gathering, or a fun private party. The sustainable urban farm restaurant offers a Neo-Indian tasting menu, which is an innovative homage to Chef Deepanker Khosla’s Indian roots, while also showing appreciation to his beloved host country, Thailand. The food here is made with only sustainable, seasonal, and local produce sourced from farmers, breeders, and fishermen in the vicinity of Bangkok. The cuisine is based on pre-colonial cultures, beliefs, and ritual practices before the region was ‘contaminated’ by western influences.

Bangkokian foodies can now indulge in delectable Neo-Indian dishes without worrying about the negative environmental impact. Here’s a restaurant dedicated to sustainability and committed to  creating zero. Haoma’s head chef and owner, Deepanker Khosla — also known as ‘DK’ — is determined to get the best organic Thai ingredients for all his unique creations. He swears by a strict no pesticide, no antibiotics policy at his restaurant. Did we mention, the vegetables and herbs at Haoma are grown right on the property using collected rainwater? You can be sure that your delicious treat is evil free and fairly treated.

We had the chance to try the new 13 course menu with beverage pairing, and it did not disappoint. Here’s a few items from the thoughtfully curated menu that we especially loved.

[All images courtesy of Haoma]

The course starts with a traditional mini kebab typical to Northern India made with 22 spices called Galauti Cornets. The cornets are filled with flavourful wild mushrooms, fresh Thai truffles Het Top, and fennel flower with a dab of citrus gel. This is followed by a few exquisite street-food inspired bites. The Pondicherry Bouillabaisse served in a shell not only bursts with aromas, but also represents the French influence in the city of Pondicherry.

‘The Disappearing Duck’ is another succulent dish rich in flavours that we truly enjoyed. It consists of a piece of tender, deboned, marinated chicken wing dusted with umami Indian spice, duck mousse with an intense turmeric kick, duck-shaped Southern Indian style sticky rice, and a bed of refreshing herbs from the urban farm. The duck-shaped sticky rice disappears into fresh cumin curry on sauce.

Impressive in presentation, ‘Prawn on the rock’ comes exactly as the name suggests. Inspired by Chef DK’s visit to Hua Hin, the dish includes prawn done three ways: Miang Kham prawn, prawn crusted with dehydrated Tom Yum, and crunchy shrimp cracker with chili paste and Indian lemonade foam.

‘Me In a Bowl’, the chef’s take on Chicken Tikka Masala, comes with a charbroiled piece of chicken marinated overnight in cream spice served with a quenelle of chilled ‘Makhani’ curry made with fresh tomatoes and jackfruit pickle. We thought this was a fun way to modernise a traditional dish, and the compressed naan crumpet made a great side.

For those who are fans of bone marrow, you’ll enjoy ‘Chettinad’ beef curry with tenderloin of wagyu marinated in southern Indian spices with crispy fried quinoa served on a bone marrow. The meaty flavours and the crunchiness harmoniously create an interesting texture contrast.

The beverage pairing selection quite adequately complemented all the dishes, but the highlight has got to be Domaine des Bernardins Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, a dessert wine that has the perfect amount of sweetness. Made from 100% Muscat Blanc, the wine has mild notes of roses and strawberries, making it a fantastic match for Nadia, the final plate on the menu, a dessert crafted as tribute to Chef DK’s first ever girlfriend back in India.

Opening Hours: Tuesday-Sunday 6-11 pm
Recommended Dishes: The tasting menu
Price: THB 3000-5000 with drinks
Noise Level: Quiet
Service: Very attentive

Haoma Bangkok, 231/1 Sukhumvit Rd., Watthana, Bangkok, + 66 2 038 5821.