It’ll be a classic dirty Martini for me (gin, extra olive), and the El Presidente for Vichayuth Chantan. Together, we’re discussing our take on the biggest bar and restaurant trends in Thailand this 2023.

We didn’t go to Le Cordon Bleu in Bangkok nor Paris, we aren’t secret voters and critics (that we can reveal here), and we didn’t star on Drinks Masters, Iron Chef, or even in a cameo role on Hunger. We do, however, visit new bars and restaurants on a weekly basis, and we do, quite often, report on the trends that take form there.

As part of our yearly review, Vichayuth and I pick apart some of the biggest bar and restaurant trends we’ve spotted in Thailand this year.

[Hero and Featured Image Credit: Tyler Nix/Unsplash]

Dining

The best new restaurants in Bangkok of 2023

Dining

Bangkok’s best new bars and cocktail menus of 2023

A discussion on Thailand’s biggest bar and restaurant trends in 2023

Guest shifts & pop-ups, borderless bromances

LG: If you had to guess how many guest shifts you visited this year, would the number be in the hundreds?

VC: Probably a thousand, roughly the same number of new bar openings in Bangkok this year. They were very big this year, for bars, they swap bartenders for shifts often, and we saw big names of the industry coming every month.

LG: Guest chefs, pop-ups, and collabs were everywhere on the food scene as well, from renowned names like Mirazur x Odette at Côte by Mauro Colagreco, over to that insane 30-hand Yuzu Safari dinner at the Park Hyatt this month. I couldn’t count the number of “one-night-only” dinners I attended this year. It’s been really fun, and it’s so nice to see the return of really big names to Bangkok, though there’s always that bittersweet feeling of knowing you’ll never be able to enjoy certain dishes again (Mia restaurant’s Chef Top: I still think about your killer ox tail consommé).

VC: In Thailand, Bangkok Bar Show also contributed to that, too. Lennon’s, The Bar, Vesper, Opium, Tropic City, and I can go on and on — many places now make it their regular programme to invite bartenders from overseas.

LG: That’s true, F&B collaborations have embraced regional talents quite beautifully this year. After all, the industry is relatively small, and many are friends. It was just announced this month, for instance, that Thailand’s beloved Chef Ton will be joining hands with Hong Kong’s beloved Chef Vicky Cheng for a fine dining extravaganza atop The Empire.

The cult of the chef, the buzz around the bartender

LG: The breaking of borders in this way has also made food travel even more enticing for many. Discerning diners collect F&B experiences like stickers and checks on a bucket list. In February, I had Haoma’s notorious Crab Madras in the Maldives, as part of Chef DK’s pop-up there. You can’t make this stuff up.

LG: Chefs have become akin to celebrities and influencers in their own right, and diners will make the trek to have their special menus. Where ‘foodporn’ was big hype a few years ago, there’s growing hype around the ‘pornstars’ now — the chefs, I mean.

VC: I’d say it could be that way soon for bars. Bartenders have broken into mainstream with media exposure (Suzu and Kate from Drinks Masters, for example) but it’s just the beginning. We also have a number of industry legends that people are looking forward to, but not to the point of being a celebrity yet.

LG: There’s definitely fan girls and boys for many of these people. Social media makes them so accessible, but also so interesting.

VC: I’m also off to the Shingo Gokan guest shift today, so nice timing.

A spotlight on wellness: calories and community

LG: Wellness was a huge lifestyle trend post-pandemic in general, and it has translated to the food space also in relation to sustainability, waste management, and a greater availability of vegan/vegetarian menus. But actually you wanted to talk about wellness, right?

VC: Indeed. As people become more health-conscious and limit their alcohol intake, many bars are starting to create signature menus that are low in alcohol percentage — something all patrons are able to enjoy without guilt. The Bar at The House on Sathorn has a spin on the Americano, for example, and Opium Bar has a whole page on low ABV cocktails.

VC: Some bars are also now stocking non-alcoholic spirits. It’s perfect for everyone at the table to enjoy the same sensation, even if you’re the designated driver or simply allergic to alcohol. In many cases, a non-alcoholic gin and tonic tastes just as refreshing yet complex as your usual order.

LG: That’s true. On a slightly different tangent, health and fitness in the chef community is an increasing subject, too. I’m not sure if it’s just my Instagram algorithm, but I’ve never seen so many chefs work out as I have in 2023. Running, weight-lifting, crossfit: you name it. In relation to our previous point, it’s pretty cool to know that the chef-crush you follow is also personally taking care of him or herself. There’s a reason why we took IGNIV’s chefs Andreas Caminada and David Hartwig for a run last month!

Do we need to talk about sustainability?

LG: Sustainability has been a big topic for restaurants and the food scene for a while now. To me, it shouldn’t be called a ‘trend’ and I don’t even want to highlight it; eco- and climate-conscious practice should be commonplace. However, I do think it’s interesting that the bar industry is also doing impressive things in this area lately.

VC: Yeah, bar owners that are looking to get that edge over their competition recognise the usage of sustainability in their operations. This, of course, gives the cocktail menu another selling point. Mahaniyom has skyrocketed into No. 19 on the World’s 50 Best Bars list, and they’re a big player in the sustainability game. Being sustainable also helps save resources by reducing waste, and also saves money while creating each cocktail — just requires a bit more time and prep for each.

Thai ingredients continue to shine

VC: Thai-inspired cocktails was arguably one of the trends started last year, and it hasn’t slowed down yet. What also popped up, however, is the increasing interest in other parts of Asia’s ingredients and spirits. Korean rooftop bar ANJU has opened atop Sindhorn Midtown, featuring cocktails made with soju. Gir’s new menu incorporates kimchi and pickled radish in one of their drinks. Kodo Bar uses a lot of sake in their menu. The list goes on.

LG: There’s going to be the first-ever craft spirit awards for Asia next year, so I’m pumped for that too. In general, the world is waking up to Thailand, and to Asian ingredients, so it is an exciting time. For restaurants, local ingredients have been in the spotlight for a longer while now, but key players like Baan Tepa’s Chef Tam or Samrub Samrub Thai’s Chef Prin Polsuk continue to communicate these Thai flavours in a refreshing, authentic, and refined manner. Even down in Phuket, Chef Ricardo Nunes and the new Hom restaurant are getting a lot of attention for what they describe as “locavorism.” It was great to see all three highly lauded at this year’s Michelin star revelation, too.

A return to the classics

VC: One big thing I noticed is that lesser-known (and many forgotten) classics are back in the limelight.

LG: Sorry, you’ll have to kill me if you want me to give up my Martini.

VC: Martinis are never out of fashion, and Negronis are a guy’s best friend. But as more consumers of Bangkok are more in touch with your usual classic cocktails, bar managers could showcase the lesser-known classics in their menu. Finally, the Galliano bottle collecting dust in the corner will finally be used for a Harvey Wallbanger or two.

LG: I get what you mean. Linking somewhat to our previous point, a spotlight on local ingredients is also a kind of return to the classics, or even as you put it, “lesser-known classics.” It’s giving a lot of ingredients a newfound respect and appreciation; I don’t want to call it “appropriation” just yet. A friend told me that recently, at a dinner party, people were gasping over Buddha’s hand fruit. Have you seen it? Sure, it’s quirky, but it has also been around forever.

VC: I know what you mean. 4th Wall’s daily-changing menu is like they had to dig up forgotten classics from a trunk beneath a seabed, but it’s the best place to introduce yourself to new flavour profiles that will sometimes make you question what the people in the 1930s were thinking.

LG: 4th Wall is a good example of the kind of space that is also a return to the classics — a good cocktail and good conversation kind of place. Whilst maximalist dining rooms may be a trend in other places, we still maintained a fair share of more intimate bars and restaurants. There’s something comforting and exclusive about them, and it’s not limited to only fancy establishments. Look at the success of SDC in Charoenkrung, or No Name Noodle in Thonglor. Both incredibly hard to book — one to enjoy with a small group of friends, and one to give yourself a solo mouthgasm when you’re craving quality ramen. Yes, we still had space for another spot for ramen.

LG: The latter reminds me of a quote from The New York Times in their 2022 story on restaurant trend predictions: “Japanese food is the cuisine all other cuisines most want to hang out with.”

VC: Good to know that in 2023, there’s one thing that hasn’t changed.

The post Discussing Thailand bar and restaurant trends in 2023 over dinner and drinks appeared first on Lifestyle Asia Bangkok.

Although there are numerous Mexican restaurants in Bangkok, one that always has a special place in our hearts and minds is Mexicano Restaurante Autentico.

If you love indulging in flavourful Mexican food, Mexicano Restaurante Autentico is the spot. Located inside The Rembrandt Sukhumvit Hotel, Mexicano offers more than just tacos and margaritas. They have various authentic Mexican dishes, captivating live performances, well-crafted refreshments, and even a tequila cart. So, without a doubt, dining here will be a fiesta, whether that’s a flavour bomb in your mouth or the spectacular vibes. For those who don’t know what to order, check out some of our must-tries. 

[All images courtesy of Mexicano Restaurante Autentico]

Must-tries at Mexicano Restaurante Autentico

Guacamole en molcajete 

If you love avocado, then you have to order the guacamole. Made fresh tableside, diners can choose whether they prefer their guac sour or spicy. You can also try making it yourself, but, it is better to let the chef do it, as their guacamole recipe is perfect. It is fresh and has just the right salty, sour, and spicy balance. Served with homemade corn tortilla chips, this is the ideal appetiser. 

Carne asada fajitas 

Despite the restaurant having different fajitas, our favourite was the carne asada, which came on a sizzling hot skillet. Talk about a fiery presentation. The steak was cooked to perfection. It was juicy and flavourful. The grilled onions and peppers also added the perfect hint of sweetness. This dish is served with rice, warm tortillas, refried beans, and other condiments like guacamole, sour cream, and salsa. 

Tacos de camarones (shrimp)

When eating at a Mexican restaurant, tacos are always a good idea. We advise you to try the shrimp tacos. The shrimpies were super bouncy, and that marinade! We’re not sure what’s mixed into those shrimps, but there was so much flavour. The zesty juiciness drips down your lips. Yes, this taco may look plain, with just cilantro and onions, but trust me, it is, hands down, Bangkok’s best shrimp taco. And I am a shrimp taco connoisseur. 

BBQ pork ribs

You can never go wrong with BBQ ribs. Here at Mexicano, their slow-cooked ribs practically fall off the bone (which we love). They’re served with fries, but the chipotle chilli coleslaw was the best pairing. The slaw was a creamy, crunchy deliciousness. Plus, the portion size of this dish was fantastic. 

Atun del diablo

Those looking for a healthier menu option should try the seared tuna. Covered in Mexican spices, the tuna had this incredible citrusy, mild, spicy taste. The texture was also pleasant, as it was buttery and smooth. Their avocado mango pico de gallo was super refreshing with so much flavour. The sweetness from the mango, with the avocado’s earthy grassy tones, combined with the limes, onions, and tomato, really added that final flourish. 

Mexicano Restaurante Autentico is open daily from 12 p.m. to 5 p.m. and 6 p.m. until 11 p.m. For further information or to make a reservation, please call 062-598-0302 or visit their website here. The restaurant also offers many special promotions and events, so make sure to check out their Facebook here.

The post Must-tries: Mexicano Restaurante Autentico presents the vibrant flavours of Mexico appeared first on Lifestyle Asia Bangkok.

Makan Makan is one of our current obsessions.

The restaurant tucked away on Sukhumvit 16 revitalises the flavours of Penang and serves up an impressive range of dishes in a cool tapas style. They showcasing classic family recipes touched with enough twists to make you go ooh and ahh after the first few bites.

Translating to “let’s go eat” in Malay, Makan Makan boasts an approachable Eurasian food repertoire and a warm, dimly-lit setting bedecked with wooden and leather elements. It exudes a lived-in charm that makes you want to cosy up and unwind in the great company of food, booze, and friends until late.

[Hero and Featured Image Credit: Louis Hansel/Unsplash; all other images courtesy of Makan Makan]

For those who are yet familiar with the cuisine of Penang, it is a beautiful, drool-inducing marriage of Malay, Peranakan, Indian, Chinese, Thai, and European flavours. Metaphorically speaking, Penang cuisine is a melting pot of eastern and western culinary delights and that explains why it leaves such an addictive effect on foodies. Each dish boasts a perfectly balanced medley of sweet, sour, salty and spicy flavours. Think, Char Koay Teow, Nasi Lemak, and more.

Created by three Penang native siblings, Tania, Scott, and Troy Da Silva aim to bring diners travel to their hometown through the plates. They aim to make you feel as if you’re dining in their home, and not in a restaurant.

Whilst the menu is quite large, here are some must-tries we recommend you should order.

First off, get comfortable with a glass of wine along with the Devil Roti Roll (THB 168) and the umami-packed Chicken Meatball Vindaloo (THB 168), which is our absolute favourite. The meatballs are cooked in a simmering fiery curry that gives them the juiciness and kick we love to whet our appetites. The Eurasian Fish Stew (THB 225) and Sambal Prawn Quesadilla (THB 168) are also another two great items to tuck into for starters.

As for the mains, we recommend going for the Mamak Mee Goreng (THB 165) and Penang Char Koay Teow (THB 165), which is a staple dish in Penang. The stir-fried flat rice noodle comes with prawn, Chinese “lap cheong” sausage, and bean sprouts, and is coated in a scrumptiously smoky soy sauce – a similar dish to Thailand’s Pad See Ew, but with a bit more going on.

For those who love nasi lemak, their version is to-die-for, and just like any rare luxury, their special Nasi Lemak is only available on Friday and Saturday. Reservation is needed since it sells like hotcakes. 

Other than their Eurasian dishes, Makan Makan also doles out an array of western dishes to cater to all palates, for example, Bolognese Pasta (THB 235) and their Old-Fashioned Cheese Burger (THB 295). For the fusion takes on western dishes, opt for their Masala Fish Burger (THB 299) or Bok Chor Pasta (THB 235).

Cap off your meal also with their desserts. We suggest you go for the stellar Cendol Ice Cream with pandan jellies and coconut ice cream swimming in coconut cream. The restaurant also makes its own ice cream with different exciting flavours inspired by Penang cuisine. These span Teh Tarik, Goreng Pisang, Gula Melaka and even Chocolate & Blue Cheese.

Here’s a piece of Penang in the heart of Bangkok that you don’t want to miss out on.

Makan Makan, 168/1 Sukhumvit Soi 16, Khlong Toei, Khlong Toey, Bangkok, +662 077 5543; Open: Tue-Sun, 11 am-10 pm.

The post Here’s how Makan Makan revitalises the flavours of Penang appeared first on Lifestyle Asia Bangkok.

It’s no secret Bangkokians love pretty things.

We go to breakfast, lunch, and dinner with a “Camera Eats First” mentality, often times heading to hip places simply because they’d fare well on the ‘gram.

It’s a generalisation and a bit of a stereotype, but you know who you are if that’s who you are. At the newly-opened and revamped Sundance Lounge, we’re thrilled to report your ‘gram will be well-accommodated, but your tastebuds and your level of inspiration will reach even higher levels. Read on for our full review.

[All images courtesy of Sundance Lounge]

Location

The new Sundance Lounge sits inside the Seenspace building on Thonglor 13. It is a multi-concept restaurant that is part of a multi-concept space housing a coffee roaster and a lifestyle store as well, making it an adequate hangout spot for any time of day. It’s tucked into a soi but it’s easy to get to, be it by car or by bike (which you could also take down Thonglor if you come by BTS).

Ambience

One thing that stands out about Sundance Lounge is the vast amount of natural light, the openness, and the generally airy ambience.

There’s a lot of thought put into the glamorous yet understated decor, ranging from the pink marble and shimmery metallic tables to scallop-edged plates and gold-tone cutlery. Small, mismatching chandeliers dangle from the ceiling in the restaurant area, which flows smoothly into the coffee and concept store space. It combines both a minimalist and modern aesthetic with delicate and feminine accents. The people that hang out here blend in seamlessly: good-looking, cool, nonchalant; creative types or mums of Thonglor in the late morning types.

Food & Drink

There are two main menus at Sundance Lounge. One is for dinner, and will be accompanied with a monthly rotating wine selection and cocktails, and one is for brunch. We dropped by for brunch.

Aiming to serve “fancy yet hearty and comforting dishes,” there was everything from a build-your-own-breakfast selection to a whole series of lobster dishes (THB 650-950) on the menu. The brioche toasts are a popular choice (especially with home-made roast beef for THB 540), yet our favourite was definitely the foie gras crepe with maple syrup and bacon (THB 750). It’s not a day for dieting, and if you really want to go all out on your cheat day, definitely add in the peanut butter cream croissant (THB 320), stuffed with blueberry jam and figs and topped with roasted peanuts.

Our clothes are feeling tighter just thinking about it again.

As for drinks, specialty coffee brand Brave Roasters is behind all the great caffeine at Sundance Lounge, yet there is also a really impressive selection of ‘Tarot Teas.’ If, like us, you’re super into astrology, you will love these, as they are inspired by tarot cards, and happen to taste really good and fragrant, too. If you’re in the mood for romance, go for The Lovers (THB 180) — a blend of green tea with vanilla and rum.

Concept Store

We’re not sure about you, but we’re real suckers for a good concept store, and Un-Formed at Sundance Lounge really does not disappoint.

Featuring different items by homegrown brands spanning all home, fashion, and lifestyle, there’s many a rare find to be found here, and at wildly affordable prices too (also a rare find to be found here).

On our visit, we couldn’t leave without buying a set of silver ear cuffs and a few bars of artisanal soap. We were also eyeing two bubble glass vases and Pulp Fiction stickers. It’s a whole thing.

Verdict

There’s something really summery about Sundance Lounge. It’s packed with an energy that reminds you of a garden party in spring, minus the heat and the bugs. A little bit glitzy but not over the top, it is a cosy space for brunch with the gals, an afternoon to work on your novel, or a pit stop between meetings to explore and uncover a little inspiration in the midst of a buzz about town.

(And if you still don’t believe us: check out their Instagram).

Sundance Lounge at Seenspace, Thonglor 13, +66 2 185 2728; Open daily 9am-6pm, and soon for dinner sessions from 6pm to 11pm. Stay tuned.

The post Review: the new Sundance Lounge, where everything you touch is pretty appeared first on Lifestyle Asia Bangkok.

Situated within The Athenee Hotel Bangkok, the newly opened Kintsugi is a progressive kaiseki-style Japanese restaurant, and Chef Jeff Ramsey’s ode to Japanese fare and tapas.

The American-Japanese Chef with his Michelin-starred Babe restaurant in Kuala Lumpur pioneered what he refers to as “Japas” cuisine; a cross between Japanese and tapas culinary traditions.

Now with his new flagship restaurant in Bangkok, the chef and his team are serving haute-cuisine food but with a satisfyingly delicious realness to the plate – something you don’t always get from eating out at a fine-dining spot.

Although the full-blown menu for Kintsugi is yet to be released, discerning diners can go ahead and relish in signature dishes from Babe, which helped the restaurant snatch that prestigious Michelin star. Get ready to be wowed with the dining experience here, brimming with theatrical elements and a lineup of dishes (8-12 courses), charmingly spiked with a two-culture cooking heritage.

Recently, we had the privilege of indulging in The Journey Tasting Menu at Kintsugi (a 12-course set menu). Read on for our full review for our low-down on the restaurant.

Ambience

Set in a Japanese-accented setting, Kintsugi exudes a Nippon sophistication and minimalist interiors touched with contemporary charm. This really embraces the Japas menu they serve.

With the goal to create a fun dining – not fine dining – experience, the part-bar, part-kitchen space amid the venue encourages an intimate guest-chef interaction. Aside from the attention and dedication to the food, this lies at the heart of Kintsugi’s philosophy. The bar counter adds a theatrical element to the dining experience, as the patrons watch chefs in action as they whip up their meals on the spot. Apart from the counter, the layout also accommodates 28 seats in the dining section and 20 seats in their two separate rooms.

Food

To preface The Journey Tasting Menu, we were first delighted with an Ootoro Tartelette, a tart shell brimmed with a mix of marbled, rose-shade tuna belly, soy gelee and spring onion, followed by a stellar Ikura and Fromage Blanc. The thin, melt-in-your-mouth cracker is draped with a dollop of fresh cheese, bejewelled generously with soy-marinated salmon roe and edible flowers for vibrancy and scrumptiousness. Here’s a refreshing bite that paves the way for the following high-carb, meat-heavy dishes.

The dinner culminated as the Oyster Ice Cream Lumpfish Roe was served. Laid before us was a bed of eel jelly laced with layers of lumpfish roe, oyster tartare, and a mini scoop of oyster ice cream. The dish brings about a mental image of a breezy day at the beach.

Next, we tucked into the Nagano Walnut Soba. A traditional dish from Nagano, this comprises of a bundle of buckwheat noodles coated thoroughly in walnut sauce, topped with a sprinkle of seven-herb mixture for herbaceous sensation, and liquid nitrogen walnut oil for a contrast temperature to the dish. Its impossibly nutty and herbal taste hits all the right spots, and is in our opinion the all-star dish in the menu.

The menu continued with Unagi, Sunchoke, Vanilla, Burdock – a dish of eel grilled to caramelised perfection, served atop a sunchoke puree accompanied by crispy fried burdock (delightful) and a drizzle of aromatic vanilla oil.

Next up was the true showstopper that really turned heads for its culinary innovation. A cheeky nod to the Häagen-Dazs ice cream sandwich, Babe-n-Dazs is a cognac-spiked foie gras monaka; a traditional Japanese dessert similar to an ice cream sandwich. The unwrapping of the entertaining package alone will make you giggle with child-like joy.

11 courses later we cosied up with dessert, which was themed around the seasonal fruit of Japan. At the time, this was persimmon. We took full pleasure in the sweet bowl carved out of persimmon, filled with mascarpone cream and caramelised fig. And if that wasn’t persimmon-y enough, it was then topped off with dried and fresh persimmons for a burst of autumn splendour rendered from the fruit of fall.

Verdict

A blast of deliciousness has descended upon Bangkok city, and without exaggeration, you can find it here at Kintsugi.

Chef Jeff puts forth an ingenious and contemporary insight for commingling culinary tradition through his Japas cuisine. The guest-chef intimacy, an offering of a theatrical yet approachable dining experience, as well as his drool-inducing fare provides a wow-worthy experience far from your typical fine-dining dinner.

Opening Hours: Tue-Sun, 6-10:30 pm.
Recommended Dishes: Ikura and Fromage Blanc, Nagano Walnut Soba and Babe-n-Dazs
Price: THB 2,680++ per person for a 12-course meal
Noise Level: Moderate to quiet
Service: Attentive, knowledgable and very friendly

Kintsugi, 3 Fl., The Athenee Hotel Bangkok, 61 Wireless Road, Lumphini, Bangkok, +6626 508 800.

The post Review: Kintsugi tips a hat to Japanese fare and Tapas appeared first on Lifestyle Asia Bangkok.

Tucked away in a Sukhumvit alley, Haoma is ideal for a romantic date, a small gathering, or a fun private party. The sustainable urban farm restaurant offers a Neo-Indian tasting menu, which is an innovative homage to Chef Deepanker Khosla’s Indian roots, while also showing appreciation to his beloved host country, Thailand. The food here is made with only sustainable, seasonal, and local produce sourced from farmers, breeders, and fishermen in the vicinity of Bangkok. The cuisine is based on pre-colonial cultures, beliefs, and ritual practices before the region was ‘contaminated’ by western influences.

Bangkokian foodies can now indulge in delectable Neo-Indian dishes without worrying about the negative environmental impact. Here’s a restaurant dedicated to sustainability and committed to  creating zero. Haoma’s head chef and owner, Deepanker Khosla — also known as ‘DK’ — is determined to get the best organic Thai ingredients for all his unique creations. He swears by a strict no pesticide, no antibiotics policy at his restaurant. Did we mention, the vegetables and herbs at Haoma are grown right on the property using collected rainwater? You can be sure that your delicious treat is evil free and fairly treated.

We had the chance to try the new 13 course menu with beverage pairing, and it did not disappoint. Here’s a few items from the thoughtfully curated menu that we especially loved.

[All images courtesy of Haoma]

The course starts with a traditional mini kebab typical to Northern India made with 22 spices called Galauti Cornets. The cornets are filled with flavourful wild mushrooms, fresh Thai truffles Het Top, and fennel flower with a dab of citrus gel. This is followed by a few exquisite street-food inspired bites. The Pondicherry Bouillabaisse served in a shell not only bursts with aromas, but also represents the French influence in the city of Pondicherry.

‘The Disappearing Duck’ is another succulent dish rich in flavours that we truly enjoyed. It consists of a piece of tender, deboned, marinated chicken wing dusted with umami Indian spice, duck mousse with an intense turmeric kick, duck-shaped Southern Indian style sticky rice, and a bed of refreshing herbs from the urban farm. The duck-shaped sticky rice disappears into fresh cumin curry on sauce.

Impressive in presentation, ‘Prawn on the rock’ comes exactly as the name suggests. Inspired by Chef DK’s visit to Hua Hin, the dish includes prawn done three ways: Miang Kham prawn, prawn crusted with dehydrated Tom Yum, and crunchy shrimp cracker with chili paste and Indian lemonade foam.

‘Me In a Bowl’, the chef’s take on Chicken Tikka Masala, comes with a charbroiled piece of chicken marinated overnight in cream spice served with a quenelle of chilled ‘Makhani’ curry made with fresh tomatoes and jackfruit pickle. We thought this was a fun way to modernise a traditional dish, and the compressed naan crumpet made a great side.

For those who are fans of bone marrow, you’ll enjoy ‘Chettinad’ beef curry with tenderloin of wagyu marinated in southern Indian spices with crispy fried quinoa served on a bone marrow. The meaty flavours and the crunchiness harmoniously create an interesting texture contrast.

The beverage pairing selection quite adequately complemented all the dishes, but the highlight has got to be Domaine des Bernardins Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, a dessert wine that has the perfect amount of sweetness. Made from 100% Muscat Blanc, the wine has mild notes of roses and strawberries, making it a fantastic match for Nadia, the final plate on the menu, a dessert crafted as tribute to Chef DK’s first ever girlfriend back in India.

Opening Hours: Tuesday-Sunday 6-11 pm
Recommended Dishes: The tasting menu
Price: THB 3000-5000 with drinks
Noise Level: Quiet
Service: Very attentive

Haoma Bangkok, 231/1 Sukhumvit Rd., Watthana, Bangkok, + 66 2 038 5821.

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As the sun sets, the crowd begins to fill up the alfresco courtyard of Palillos Yakitori Bar. The restaurant recently relocated to a new location along Jalan Mesui with a newly refreshed look and a much bigger space to cater to a growing interest in the bar.

For the last four years, Palillos Yakitori Bar has been the city’s best-kept secret, squirrelled away amongst the bevvy of bars in Changkat Bukit Bintang. Today, it is the go-to place for comfort food in the form of grilled skewers and craft beers.

Palillos is helmed by Spanish owner-chef Roberto Solanes, the muscle behind Pinchos Tapas Bar. It’s a fusion yakitori joint that combines Spanish sensibilities with Japanese gastronomy. Unlike traditional yakitori places, the menu here is deeply rooted in Spanish influences with ingredients flown directly from Spain, and creations inspired by its national dishes.

Authentic Japanese Experience with Spanish Vibes

Entering the premise feels like walking into a ryokan where the understated Japanese architectural style thrives. While the main courtyard carries a cooler vibe with prominent use of concrete, wood plays the protagonist for its facade; taking the forms of screens and skeletal ceilings. 

In the restaurant, the bar stands out with vibrant elements of various leitmotifs thanks to the Spanish side of things. At the far end, the grill is where the heart of the restaurant beats. All the action that literally takes place here as skilled cooks keep a watchful eye on the meat and skewers in the open flame. All meats are cooked over binchotan charcoal, white charcoal that comes from Japanese Holm oak trees to preserve a high cooking temperature while allowing the meat to retain its natural flavours. This is in line with Palillos’ ethos of freshness and simplicity.

The atmosphere is lively especially when the restaurant is full. Patrons begin to flock into Palillos at about 7.00 PM, so come early if you like the privilege of choosing your preferred seats.

Smoky, Charred and Comforting Flavours

The flavours you get here are unpretentious — good old pub grub with lots of smoky and savoury aroma from perfectly flamed skewers. Of course, casual diners would reach out for classic offerings like jowls, pork belly, chicken tenders and a selection of seafood. Adventurous foodies, on the other hand, can venture exotic parts and a slew of uncommon options like chicken heart, gizzard and chicken skin.

The must-tries? Spanish Galician Octopus and the Grilled Iberico Collar with shishito peppers are instant crowdpleasers. The octopus is sourced from a village in North of Spain that specialises in purveying high-quality seafood, particularly octopi. Texture-wise, it is exquisitely tender — the best we’ve ever had — and every bite offers great mouthfeel. Being perfectly flamed, the juicy tentacles maintain a great softness while the exterior is slightly flash-charred.

In most Malaysian restaurants, condiments are a must and its dipping sauce is a winner. Instead of the usual yuzukosho (a flavoured salt combining yuzu and chilli) or wasabi, the yakitori here is served with a special romesco sauce with a twist. Traditionally a Catalonian recipe with a tomato base, the romesco dipping sauce in Palillos is made using miso, garlic, capsicum and a whole lot of spices — which makes up for the perfect pairing with the grilled octopus.

Try also the Patatas Bravas, typically served with aioli, but the version in Palillos comes with a mentaiko mayo for a beautiful burst of umami to this iconic Spanish classic.

Another great sharing platter is the K-Pork comprising a generous serving of grilled pork neck, lettuce, shiso leaf and the house specialty romesco condiment. This dish requires diners to make their own wraps — a similar concept to mieng kam in Thai cuisine or the Peking duck dish in Chinese cooking. There are no rules; so order extra meat cuts or the grilled ox tongue that go well with in the wrap.

If you need something more substantial, the ox tongue stew is the perfect comfort food — better than any hearty goulash or even a 48-hour braised lamb dish. The meat melts in the mouth and best enjoyed with a bowl of steamed rice. There’s the slightest aroma of curry to give the stew a kick, but not overpowering the mild spices.

Vegan-friendly? 

If you’re not a meat person, there are also some non-meat options that are flamed to perfection including a novelty: grilled avocado. Glazed with soy and topped with wasabi, the lightly charred avocado is a true surprise for even the most ardent carnivorous foodies out there.

To finish, chocolate mousse with olive oil and sea salt slides down the throat with a decadently smooth texture. But if you’re feeling like having a drink or two, Palillos offers an impressive sake list ranging from artisan house pours to premium bottles including the Benten Museum Junmai Nigori and Izumibashi Junmai Daiginjo Tonbo. There are also other collection of spirits and craft beers, as well as the quintessential Japanese shochu.

Verdict

It is agreed across the table that Palillos not only offers a great mix of Spanish-Japanese gastronomic experience but also fast becoming one of the best yakitori bars in town. It has a vibrant atmosphere that’s perfect for winding down after working hours. Solanes also promises exciting new items to be added into its menu, ensuring patrons novelty dishes with every recurring visits. Ultimately, it is hard not to have a good time over delicious skewers and a few shots sake.

The post Review: Palillos Yakitori Bar modernises traditional Japanese grills with Spanish sensibilities appeared first on Lifestyle Asia Bangkok.

Over the last half decade, it’s been extremely gratifying to watch as a growing number of Hong Kong’s brightest bartenders strike out on their own — in an effort to develop independent, distinctive, local hospitality concepts. To wit, for reasons both financial and logistical, these have frequently taken the form of a cosy and surreptitious venue: often directly managed by the owners; often serving beverages with a very well-delineated theme. Tell Camellia is definitely all those things, and yet it’s also a welcome herald of the diversity that is growing within the Hong Kong bar community. Smart, focused, and refreshingly devoid of superfluity, the city’s first ‘contemporary tea cocktail bar’ doesn’t dominate the conversation — it strikes up one of its own.

Inspired by the camellia sinensis plant from which most teas (in their rawest form) are grown, Tell Camellia throws drinkers a somewhat novel angle: each of the bar’s nine cocktails is inspired by the eponymous tea plant, and the eclectic cultural contexts in which tea is consumed.

“I always say that we’re the only bar in Hong Kong where the tea comes first,” jokes co-founder Sandeep Hathiramani, “and the alcohol comes last.” Along with his partner, award-winning bartender Gagan Gurung, Hathiramani’s passion for a good cuppa is evident the moment you set foot inside the venue: it’s a theme that is confidently articulated, throughout the furnishings and the menu, which necessarily also means that — as Hathiramani himself admits freely — Tell Camellia is a concept best enjoyed with a lucid palette and an open mind.

The ambience

Tucked down an alley underneath newly bustling H Code, Tell Camellia’s location is a boon to drinkers who favour comfortable acoustics and a convenient location. Despite being in the thick of Central, the venue hints convincingly at tea country before you’ve even set foot indoors. Neatly potted bamboos flank the entrance, offering a refreshing departure from the surrounding quagmire of offices and cobblestones. Inside, the decor embraces a multitude of references to international tea cultures — some more oblique than others.

It’s always promising when a fit-out manages to ‘wink’ (as opposed to ‘screech’) the predominant theme of the venue; and in the case of Tell Camellia, the effect is of escaping to a cleverly secluded woodland sanctuary — that just so happens to be populated by darjeeling obsessives. Traditional tea making utensils line the shelves and insides of countertops, whereas the distinctive wood beamed ceiling alludes to the mountainous locales of Asia, Africa and Oceania where  tea abundantly grows. 

The drinks

Given that not everybody will arrive at Tell Camellia waving a branch for cocktails (much less, artisanal teas of the world), Gagan and Hathiramani have wisely chosen to abbreviate the menu into two distinct sections. The shorter of these, entitled ‘T & Tonic’, is themed exclusively around tall drinks — fashioned upon gin that has been redistilled using ‘non-Camellia’ teas. (Hathiramani explains that the term encompasses all herbal/fruit infusions that don’t come from the leaves of the camellia sinensis tree.)

Approachable in appearance and flavour, each of the four T & Tonics — which always includes one booze-free option — constrains its focus to just two ingredients, producing a beverage in which the tea flavours are clean, magnified and dangerously drinkable. The Mango & Strawberry (HK$95) is eerily accurate in depicting the former’s sweetness and the latter’s texture; whereas the exciting ‘push-pull’ dynamic inherent in food pairings is explored through the Italian Almonds & Truffle (HK$95).

In a sustainable effort to use less garnishes, every T & Tonic is served simply in a glass decorated with a recycled tea leaf — the colour of the leaf alluding to the primary flavours in the drink. (The non-alcoholic Rosemary & Sweet Lime (HK$95) is served with a green leaf, for instance.) It’s an original presentation that’s thoughtful on multiple levels: quickening the preparation process whilst cracking down on wasteful practices in the industry at large. (According to Gurung, thousands of perfectly good limes go to waste every weekend in the Hong Kong bar scene due to inadequate training around sustainability.) 

On the ‘Teatail’ side of things, a similar logic is at work. Each beverage is named for the place where the tea blend it uses was produced; and captures several of the iconic flavours and tea-drinking traditions of that region.

Japan (HK$95) — the venue’s notoriously photogenic ‘floating’ cocktail — is an ode to the country’s tea-making rituals and pescatarian delicacies. The drink is served in an unostentatious wooden vessel — modelled after the chawan that is customary in the preparation of matcha. Both evaporated and redistilled green tea is used, which alternately adds intensity and balance to the beverage’s distinctive astringent flavour. For an initial hit of richness, Gurung chose to sprinkle this cocktail with a garnish of seaweed and plankton, leading to a drinking experience that starts out as an umami bomb before secondary, pleasantly lactic flavours (i.e. pumpkin seed) start to come through.

For something more along classic bar book lines, the Kenya (HK$95) incorporates plenty of layered flavours that also double as nods to the eponymous country’s agricultural heritage. The bracing, phenolic signature of Marinyn tea is blended with banana and sweet potato, then finished using cornflakes-infused tequila. The result is a smooth, featherlight sip — one which manages to balance the sweet with the sour, and the nutty with the vegetal.

Our verdict

Though still very much a soft opening kind of operation, there’s more than enough evidence to support that Tell Camellia is in it for the long haul. Hathiramani and Gurung’s new project has all the makings of a scene stealer, and it will be fascinating to see whether Hongkongers cotton to the duo’s vision of a place where tea and distillates are ultimately the roadmap by which we discover the far-flung corners of our world. On the subject of why they’ve yet to develop a menu that gleans its inspiration from closer to home (i.e. China and India), Gurung is impish. “It’s too obvious,” he winks. “As arguably the two biggest tea producing and tea drinking cultures in the world, we want to work up to them.” We, for one, can’t wait.

Opening hours: Mon-Sat, 6pm-1am.

Recommended drinks: Japan (Teatail), Italian Almond & Truffle (T & Tonic).

Price: All HK$95; subject to 10% service charge.

Noise level: Quiet, appropriate for dates or overdue catchups.

Service: Informative, laidback.

Tell Camellia, LG/F, H Code, 45 Pottinger Street, Central, Hong Kong, +852 6038 4020

The post Bar review: At Tell Camellia, tea and gin get the crossover they deserve appeared first on Lifestyle Asia Bangkok.

Once noted as Bangkok’s multi-purpose venue for aromatherapy products and quality brews, Karmakamet now goes on a full-on culinary venture with its new-ish restaurant, Karmakamet Diner, over at Soi Methi Niwet.

Helmed by the dexterous Chef Jutamas “Som” Theantae, the brunch-focused menu gets top-notch treatment here at the diner. The outlet translates down-home recipes into distinctive, quality ingredient-driven dishes – think buttery pancakes served with, not fried chicken, but braised, fork-tender duck and seared foie gras.

We had the privilege of indulging in their signature dishes recently. Read on for our full review to get a glimpse of Karmakamet Diner.

Ambience

Nestled on the leafy street of Soi Methi Niwet, the leafy lane that runs between The Emporium and Benjasiri Park, the restaurant reflects a mix of woodland design and old-school shophouse. The space is well-designed and the walls are studded throughout with vintage bottles of essential oils, hanging indoor plants and drug store’s antique cabinets. Hugged by a lush garden, the venue also boasts a warm and welcoming vibe – which will make diners feel as though they are dining out in the wild with delicious good food.

Food

Although Karmakamet Diner serves both a la carte and a tasting menu, the venue absolutely specialises in brunch dishes.

We first began the meal with the vibrant Avocado Mango Salad (THB 590) which totally screams summer thanks to its presentation and the bright, acidic tastes from the herby yoghurt dressing and seasonal mango. We didn’t think the dish was going to work regarding the totally different tastes of mango and avocado. But the fennel-spiked sauce in the dish does an excellent job in bonding the two ingredients together in order to give off harmoniously creamy slash tangy flavours to the dish.

Ncxt we had a cheese-on-carb-on-cheese dish of Croque Madame (THB 490). The look of this dish alone is already appetite-reviving but once the French-born ham and cheese sandwich gets crowned with egg and showered in a creamy béchamel sauce, the dish oozes out this gooey deliciousness that will make you feel awestruck by its richness.

Next up we were presented with a photo-ready dish of A-Can’t-Resist-Waffle (THB 890), featuring duck leg confit, seared foie gras, hash brown, buttermilk waffles, butter, mustard and maple syrup. Basically, here’s where heaven fits on a place, enough said.

Another star of the menu is the A La Sorrentina (THB 390). The spaghetti with the chunky house-made tomato sauce already packs an umami punch but the fried-then-baked meatballs totally bring the dish to new heights thanks to its absurd juiciness.

And as you already know, no meal is complete without a sugar-laden dessert and this next dish of Camembert Donut (THB 360) is also totally worth mentioning. The sound of vanilla-flecked camembert glaze might be odd but the cheese totally adds savoury scrumptiousness to the fluffy cake doughnut. Though it might not be a palate cleanser, this dessert sure gives pleasure to those who are absolutely wild for cheese.

Verdict

Serve as a lush sanctuary within the city, many have a pronounced tendency to come back to Karmakamet Diner just to unwind in its tranquil setting. But as much as we love the ambience, we would one hundred per cent go back there for the food. The diner offers a wealth of hearty and toothsome dishes so brunch fanatics who crave for brunch fare with a modern flair of fine dining elements (yes foie gras and such), here’s the perfect place that is bound to delight you.

Karmakamet Diner, 30/1 Sukhumvit Road, Soi Methi Niwet, Bangkok, +662 262 0700

Open: Mon-Sun, 10 am- 11:30 pm.

The post Review: Karmakamet Diner turns down-home brunch into a first-class experience appeared first on Lifestyle Asia Bangkok.

When it comes to Thai food, the newly-opened Market Café within the Hyatt Regency Bangkok Sukhumvit does not compromise on vivid flavours. More really is more here, particularly pertaining to the use of spices and locally market-sourced ingredients. The venue also boasts an elegant, dimly-lit setting that elevates the sumptuously down-to-earth Thai fare into something more of a fine-dining experience (but without the arguably overrated use of foie gras and caviar).

And although the all-day dining restaurant opens with a breakfast buffet, it offers a range of regional Thai dishes throughout the entire day. We had the privilege of indulging in their signature dishes recently. Read on for our full review to get a glimpse of Market Cafe.

Ambience

Stepping into Market Cafe is like walking into a modernised version of your grandma’s old-school kitchen. First thing you’ll encounter is the open kitchen where cooks busily whip up their meals, making melodious sounds with spatulas cranking up the pans. Decorated throughout with Thai-style paintings and antique copper kitchenware, the venue exudes a vintage charm that comforts you right up. The use of contemporary furnitures like vibrant lounge chairs and a mix of French-style equipment in the kitchen also accentuates the space with a French glamour that enchants the room with a sense of luxury.

Food

Classic Thai dishes always take full advantage of the markets’ booming seasonal produce. And that’s exactly what Market Cafe is doing. The outlet incorporates heavy use of ingredients found in the city’s markets, following the mission after its name. After a read through the menu that lists mostly unknown and under-appreciated Thai dishes, you’ll see Market Cafe’s intention in embracing traditional Thai cuisine to the fullest by not only including the classic Thai popular fare like pad thai and tom yum, but lesser known Thai dishes too.

The food here is best enjoyed in a family-sharing style which is considered typical in Thai dining culture. So on our visit, we went right on with a feast of many sharing dishes. The first one we gorged on was the highly addictive Peek Gai Tod Jaew (THB 180) where the deep-fried chicken wings get glorious glazing of caramelized spicy sauce followed by a sprinkling of toasted sticky rice for extra crunch.

Next up was Yum Som-O Goong (THB 200), a Thai pomelo salad featuring a mix of refreshing fruit and savoury elements like river prawns and chilli which are then bound together by a sweet and sour sauce.

We then headed South in the next dish of Pu Phad Pong Ka Ree (THB 400) where fat chunks of crab meat swam happily in the umami-packed curry thickened with eggs.

It surely wouldn’t be a complete Thai feast without a chilli-laden curry. We then cosied up with Gang Pu Bai Cha Plu (THB 380) consisting of a betel leaf-based curry and generous portions of crabmeat.

And although the venue serves up delectable Sen Yai Phad Kee Mao Talay (THB 200), an aromatic seafood drunken noodle, another similar dish worth mentioning here also is their Sen Yai Phad Kapi Goong (THB 170), where the rice noodles are seasoned with pungent yet scrumptious shrimp paste. But if shrimp paste is not down your alley, pad thai or drunken noodles will be your safe bet.

Verdict 

Unbeknownst to many, Market Cafe, which appears to be like a fine-dining spot is actually a Thai comfort food enclave. It is unlikely that you’ll find fusion Thai food at this spot since the cooks here are more proud to serve you traditional and lost-in-time Thai dishes enjoyed by everyone. Those hankering for comfort-filled, no-nonsense Thai dishes in a luxe, elevated and unpretentious setting, Market Cafe sure will be your safe option.

Market Café, 1, Sukhumvit Soi 13, Bangkok, +66 2 098 1346
Open: Mon-Sun, 10:30 am-10 pm.

The post Review: the luxe Market Cafe serves up down-to-earth Thai dishes appeared first on Lifestyle Asia Bangkok.

There is only one name that spurs from the lips of every Bangkokian with a knack for natural wines at the moment, and its moniker is as naughty as its menu is tastefully seductive. Welcome to Wet.

The brainchild of Bangkok culinary royalty Gaggan Anand, Wet is the infamous chef’s last and latest venture in the city, located in a tranquil yet wildly trendy corner on Soi Langsuan – between Gaggan and Gaa, no less. Of course, the venture should come as no serious surprise, as anyone who has ever eaten at the endlessly award-winning restaurant will know that the carefully selected wines from in-house sommelier extraordinaire Vladimir Kojic have long been paramount to the Gaggan experience. For their special collab, expect an impressive wine list, unusual bar snacks, and an atmosphere that moodily and broodily brings it all together with great allure. As a natural wine revolution quietly begins to take over Bangkok’s bar scene, Wet is at its neon-lit forefront in a sexy and deeply sip-worthy style.

Ambience

There are very few wine bars that can claim a make-belief bathroom as the entrance to their venue; and even if so, it is seldom that it’ll come across as so deeply Instagrammable as at Wet. Guests to the bar will enter past an Asian squat toilet and a few snazzy scribbles on the ceramic tiled walls around it, before being welcomed by the warm embrace of a cosy and dimly lit interior.

Exposed brick and neon signs up the ante for a sensuous ambience with cheeky phrases like ‘Grape Juice Only’ written above the bar, and ‘Don’t Get Wet’ hoisted above the upstairs seating area. Over two floors inside what appears to look like a homey hideout, the set-up at Wet is extremely comfortable, and entirely unpretentious. The music sets a tantalising tone, with a playlist that ranges from smooth hip hop to catchy chill-out classics, all of which pair intriguingly well with the wines. Crowd-wise, think a mix of local cool cats as well as pre- and post- Gaggan dinner guests, all of whom seek a great sip in seeming incognito.

Wine

The wine list at Wet is ever-changing, and features mostly natural wines from the European (and largely Eastern European) region. It is a lengthy and extremely well-assembled one, and prides itself in offering only raw, natural, organic, and biodynamic wines. A quote by Jules Chauvet on the first page of the menu reads, “A fair wine must look where it comes from, the year it comes from, and have the guts of the person who made it.” And indeed, on speaking to Bar Manager Milan on our visit, it is clear that each bottle here has a story – and the staff will be able to recount it to you with great passion, too.

Wet prides itself in knowing each of their winemakers, carefully selecting a great variety of wines from independent wineries. Don’t expect your average Sauvignon or Merlot here, but rather dabble in more unique and nuanced options, like a fine Austrian Meinklang or Glück, a bubbly Alsatian Domaine Christian Binner Extra Brut, or the sweetly-named Czech Miky-Mauz. Wet makes natural wines really fun to explore, really educational to talk about, and really fulfilling and easy to drink – something that also makes the slightly hefty price tags (upwards of THB400/glass) feel a bit more apt.

Food

Whilst wine is definitely the shining star at Wet, it is highly advisable to sample a bite or two alongside your sips, even if just to experience a bar snack with a progressive Indian twist. The menu delivers in both freaky item names and freakishly good flavour, delivering many classic Gaggan favourites at unusually affordable levels. We love the ‘Prawnstar’ tamarind and black pepper prawns (THB 590) as well as the ‘Sexually Charged Crab Pasta’ (THB 690) for great alternatives to the classic cheese and charcuterie boards. For bigger appetites, definitely try one of the curries (THB 390-590) for a casual curry house bite that delivers in fine dining finesse without the fuss. Dessert-wise, the ‘Scream for Cream’ ice cream sandwich (THB 150) is also an extremely noteworthy signature.

Verdict

Despite having a famous godfather, it is refreshing to see that Wet is truly holding its own as a home for top-quality wines in a tranquil environment. You need not be a connoisseur (though you’ll be in a sipping utopia if you are) to enjoy a glass or seven here, and you need not be intimidated or overwhelmed by the selection. Wet spells ‘vibes’ with a capital V, balancing high standards with teasing playfulness. Many of the smaller details are incredibly tongue-in-cheek, yet are executed so tastefully that it appears addictive to re-visit rather than aversive to check out. Not just a stop along the way to the Michelin-starred haunts nearby, but a destination entirely worth visiting on its own, Wet is definitely and deliciously deserving of its hot hype.

Opening Hours: Mon-Sat 4.30pm – 2am
Price: Wines at approx. THB400/glass, Food at approx. THB 250-700/dish
Noise Level: Lively and alluring; a perfect balance between bobbing heads to the soundtrack and having intimate conversations between the bean bags
Service: Attentive and knowledgeable

Wet, 68/9 Soi Langsuan, Phloen Chit Rd., Bangkok, +66 62 117 2835

The post Bar Review: Wet, Gaggan’s new and naughty natural wine bar appeared first on Lifestyle Asia Bangkok.

When considering a restaurant that is truly committed to expanding the flourishing farm-to-table practice in the heart of Bangkok, the name TAAN often – if not always – comes to mind.

The farm-to-fork Thai restaurant perched on the 25th floor of Siam@Siam Design Hotel Bangkok serves up fine dining-style meals crafted solely from locally-sourced produce of the farmers of Thailand.

Led by the agriculturally-minded chef Monthep “Thep” Kamolsilp (whose obsessive passion is foraging), the chef and his team weave together hyper-local cooking with modern Thai cuisine by working closely with growers and is, furthermore, always in search of pristine and seasonal ingredients across the country. After a read through the menu, the first impression you’ll get is that the food here is very much ingredient-driven; each dish featured in the course often showcases one highlighted ingredient with an accompaniment of stories from the farm it was grown and cultivated at.

We had the privilege of indulging in TAAN’s new Tasting Menu (a 9-course set menu) recently. Read on for our full review to get a glimpse of TAAN.

Ambience

The dimly-lit space maintains the classic enchantment of that of a fine-dining restaurant. The establishment boasts Thai art-inspired walls and is furnished in a minimalist manner, with simple wooden dining tables and leather-upholstered chairs. The ceiling-to-floor glass windows enveloping half of the dining space also gives diners a chance to appreciate Bangkok’s urban landscape while they gorge on their delicious Thai food.

Food

TAAN goes even more innovative Thai with its latest tasting menu which features 9 courses in total.

We first began the meal by celebrating the Thailand-bred crustacean, a spiny lobster from Ranong city. Cured to succulence in fish sauce, the lobster is then bejeweled elegantly with gem-like caviar from the Royal Project and is served with a scoop of pungent green chilli relish. Though the dish looks very delicate and mild, it is actually packed with a delicious fishy flavour which keeps the caviar and the lobster exciting instead of tasting bland or lacking in flavour.

Next, we got served up the Fermented Organic Pork. And if you have heard of – and tasted – the Thai-style sausage, you’ll know it’s Thai comfort food at its best. TAAN’s version uses organic pork shoulder from Nan. The meat goes through a long three-day fermentation process to achieve that sour-ish flavour, which is a unique characteristic of Thai sausage. The dried mackerel, Thai Sichuan pepper, neem leaf and the Forgotten Husband rice (black glutinous rice) are then added to spruce up the meat into something so extraordinary that the taste will make you forget about your partner (just as predicted with Forgotten Husband rice, which, being so delicious, causes one to forget the woes of being with their other half).

The deliciousness continued in our next dish of Stir-fried Hinlay Blue Swimmer Crab. Whipped out of the blue swimmer crab from Chumphon and organic eggs, salted egg and piquant Hinlay curry powder, the spice-basted dish sings with delectability, thanks to its pristine ingredients.

For the main that was kept in the Thai family-sharing style, we gorged on three different shared dishes that came with cooked-to-perfection brown and jasmine rice. The dish we were particularly fond of, however, was the Grilled Crispy Pork Belly. Served on a bed of stir-fried bitter beans (stinky beans) cooked and coated with shrimp paste and chilli, the the stinky-in-a-good-way beans provided a crunch and robust taste that made it a good counterpart to the hearty and fat-filled crispy pork belly from Khon Kaen.

For dessert, we had the reimagined Kanom Taan, a steamed cake made from toddy palm grown in Lopburi. Atop the shredded pieces of cake was green roasted pumpkin ice cream that gave the dish a smokey sweetness. The coconut mousse and the sprinkling of kaffir lime also gave the dish a savoury touch, perfect for dessert devotees who absolutely hate their delicacies to be overly sweetened. Though the focus was supposed to be about the toddy palm cake, the pumpkin-based ice cream definitely got our full attention due to its fluffy, cream-like toothsomeness.

Verdict

Pursuing the philosophy that Thai food will always keep on evolving, the food served here is made in a traditional Thai way but presented with a cool slash chic innovative touch. So expect to see many of your classic Thai dishes be given a makeover, reimagined look. The food, meanwhile, is umami-packed and nutritious and the service is attentive and very, very knowledgeable; the servers can give you the full-on details about each dish as if they were the cooks themselves. Also, TAAN is the kind of restaurant that will never deceive you about where its ingredients come from; the venue will tell you straight up the name and the people behind each ingredient and the stories behind the products they use.
So to end this on a clear note, TAAN is truly the place you should go to celebrate Thai food and all the people that are behind and evolving with it.

Opening Hours: Mon-Fri (for lunch): 12-2:30 pm; Mon-Sun (for dinner), 6-11 pm.
Recommended Dishes:  Fermented Organic Pork, Stir-fried Hinlay Blue Swimmer Crab and Grilled Crispy Pork Belly.

Price: THB 2,100++ for the 9-course tasting menu.

Noise Level: Quiet
Service: Attentive and very friendly

TAAN, 25th Fl. Siam@Siam Design Hotel, Bangkok, +6665 328 7374

The post Review: TAAN weaves the farm-to-table practice with modern Thai cuisine appeared first on Lifestyle Asia Bangkok.

Ocken Restaurant: a place that is fuelled with spirits of creativity and freedom of cooking. The meal here is inspired by the cook’s memories and his or her daily craving for well-made and tasty food. You may very well say the dishes here are chef-centric; instead of focusing on what diners are crazing over, the chefs here actually go for what really makes them happy to cook. So it comes as no surprise to see that a read through the menu won’t really tell you what kind of food they serve here. And yet, with their emphasis also on making great food from top-notch ingredients, the name ‘Ocken’ has been mentioned with noticeable constancy among foodies.

The menu features diverse cuisines, spanning Korean, European and Western dishes, and we got the privilege to indulge in their new dishes recently. Read on for our full review to get a glimpse of what Ocken is really all about.

Ambience

With the use of copper and wood elements, Ocken boasts a dimly-lit space that has a touch of romance to it. Once you enter, the first two things that are likely to catch your eyes immediately are the open kitchen and baking stations. Bread cools on the table in front of the guests, jars of grains and spices are stacked up by the wall, a turquoise bar is filled with booze, and everything is messily in order. The hectic kitchen fills the air with spirited energy, orchestrating the melodious sounds of spatulas hitting pots and pans that make the semi-fine dining venue unpretentious.

Food

The one-page menu here changes constantly. One thing, however, remains the same: the food is divided into five courses, entitled simply as course One, Two, Three, Four, and Five. With each course offering a series of dishes, diners get a chance to assemble their own meal freely. The restaurant does not even require you to stick from course One to Five, so if you’re more of an a la carte person, go ahead and select what you fancy.

A meal at Ocken is the kind of fine meal that begins with cocktails and a basket filled to the brim with warm brioche and house-own bread, which the bakers make freshly right at their flour-specked station in the corner of the restaurant. We got it served as the first stellar appetiser and of course, enjoyed it immensely.

The first actual dish that arrived at our table as a deliciously welcoming bite was the Shrimp Toast (THB 220). Smeared between two slices of pan-toasted sandwich bread was the gooey sauce made up of shrimp patty, hoisin, herbs, spicy Sriracha mayo and fish sauce vinaigrette. The sandwich was tangy and richly-textured thanks to the patty and fatty sauce. The small appetiser had layers of flavour that left us dazzled over its look of simplicity.

Next up we had the Ocken Salad (THB 420), which was comprised of burrata, kiwi and Asian pear served on a bed of watercress. The salad itself tasted simple, but one thing that raised its tastiness to a whole new level was the rosemary-spiked almonds sprinkled generously on top, giving the dish that wonderful crunch and nuttiness.

Now if you’re a fan of Korean-style fried chicken, you’d absolutely like the upcoming dish we tried of Korean Fried Cauliflower (THB 320). Coated — more like soaked — in the sweet slash spicy chilli sauce, the bite-sized batter-fried cauliflower yielded the familiar flavour you often get from dining at Bonchon Chicken except for the chicken substitution actually made the dish more addictive, due to the toothsome softness of the cauliflower.

We then continued with another green-centric dish: the Cold Cappellini (THB 450). Bathed in semi-tangy tomato water and zucchini sauce, the bundle of capellini pasta soaked up the mint-green liquid, showcasing a beautiful greenish colour that only helped to highlight the burrata and crispy prosciutto placed atop it. Although the presentation of the dish was absolutely on point, we felt somehow that each component of the dish didn’t do so well at complementing one another; they weighed each other down into a jumble of flavours.

For the main, we had the Piri Piri Chicken (THB 480), which was absolutely delightful. Ocken’s deconstructed version of the Portuguese and African grilled chicken was placed on a blanket of smoky charred tomato sauce and jalapeno salsa. The meat itself was grilled to succulent perfection, so expect no dry bits that will make you down tons of water soon afterwards.

For dessert, we capped off the meal with A Matter of Chocolate (THB 320). The dessert comes with a trio of chocolate cake, malt dark chocolate mousse and aerated chocolate topped with brown butter fudge sauce and a sprinkle of cocoa nibs. It’s an explosion of cocoa in one bowl.

Drink
The extensive list of alcoholic drinks here includes classic cocktails, beer, cider, wine and digestifs. What we highly recommend are the two house cocktails: Rumble in the Jungle (THB 360) and the Ocken Martini (THB 380).

Made of jackfruit-infused white rum, Rinomato, passion fruit and pineapple, the Rumble in the Jungle will make you startled with its jackfruit-y delicious taste.

The Ocken Martini, on the other hand, was a jolly play on the classic. A few dashes of pickle brine, soy sauce and sesame oil get mixed up with gin and white vermouth to add that unusual savouriness to the cocktail, which made it a good match for dinner time. Tasty and refreshing, you may not even notice your martini has soy sauce and sesame oil incorporated in it.

Verdict

Dine here if you love edible creativity. Ocken serves fine dining-style food that is actually approachable and unpretentious. Expect to see chefs putting new spins on your usual classics, like the brie-drench omelette and the deep-fried Korean chicken in the form of Korean-style fried cauliflower. Diners, however, can’t really expect the world from the service. On our visit, it wasn’t a place of great attentive or warm cordiality, which is a shame, as it would completely complement the good food and atmosphere with a same level of excellence.

Opening Hours: Tue-Sun, 6 pm-11:45 pm; Sat-Sun, 10:30 am-2:30 pm
Recommended Dishes:  Shrimp Toast and Piri Piri Chicken
Price: From THB 220-THB 1,500 per person
Noise Level: Moderate
Service: Non-intrusive

Ocken, Bhiraj Tower at Sathon Building A, 1 FL, South Sathon Road, Yannawa, Bangkok, +6682 091 6174

The post Review: Ocken brings comfort-filled creativity to the table appeared first on Lifestyle Asia Bangkok.

After closing for renovation in August last year, 80/20 has daringly made a comeback with a new look while still espousing the same goal: to bring traditional Thai charm to Fine dining using French cooking techniques and no shortage – absolutely no shortage – of locally-sourced ingredients.

Helmed by Napol “Joe” Jantraget and Pastry Chef Saki Hoshino, the husband-and-wife duo have long been making a name for themselves thanks to their innovative tweaks on regional Thai cuisine. Once following an 80/20 ratio of Thai to imported ingredients, now the venue has fully swung to using 100 per cent Thailand grown-and-raised produce and meat products.

Arising from their major refurbishment this time was not just a more intimate space, but also a new 9-course menu, which still stays true to their unique play on rare local ingredients cooked with modern methods to create exciting new flavours. The menu also unfolds in a medley of Asian cuisine-inspired dishes which showcase Joe and Saki’s recent culinary trips in Thailand, Malaysia, Japan and Taiwan. All in all, they keep up with the parameter of flavours that suit the Asian food-lover’s palate.

We had the privilege to indulge in their new culinary creations recently. Read on for our full review below to get a glimpse of the new 80/20.

Ambience

Located in one of Bangkok’s oldest riverfront districts, 80/20 boasts a dark-hued dining space of black and brown, very much like other fine-dining restaurants. What sets them apart though is the fermentation room up front where they keep all things fermented inside like a not-so-secret science lab. There’s also a wall embellished with Thai mural paintings, which coalesces impressively with the vibe of the old-school and hip neighbourhood it sits in.

Aside from that, the dining room has been enlarged to accommodate diners and large parties more comfortably whilst the open kitchen has also been extended to give diners a more vivid view of how the food gets made. Those who like to take a front-row seat, intimate seating positioned close to the kitchen is also available for a superb front-row view.

Food & Drink
The food here truly takes on Thai flavours. Co-mingling together regional Thai cuisine with French cooking methods, the 9-course menu truly showcases Thai food in the realm of fine dining. With the use of 100 per cent locally-sourced ingredients, 80/20’s food flaunts a Thai aesthetic which shows their commitment to Thai cuisine.

We first cosied up with the Chili Roulette, the menu’s first amuse bouche or what the restaurant would refer to as a “snack”. The deceptive, chili-infused dish, which is made from green bean puree spiced with rendang curry paste, was presented among a bouquet of actual red and green chillies, making a fun guessing game for diners and giving everyone a good laugh before the real meal started.

What we particularly felt peachy about was the next dish of Goat Tartare and Fermented Rice Coconut Crêpe. Inspired from the Indian palappam pancake which is made from fermented rice and coconut milk batter, the crispy crêpe is used to envelop the tartare made out of minced goat meat which has been dry-aged for 2 days straight to get the concentrated meaty flavour. Dressed in fish sauce caramel and masala aioli, the goat tartare definitely won our hearts with its fish-saucy deliciousness.

Once the amuse bouche had revived our appetites, we then sated our hunger with the next dish, the Curry Puff with Spicy Banana Blossom and Sweet Black Banana Sauce. Known as Thailand’s favourite finger food, 80/20’s version set itself apart from the typical chicken-filling puff with khua kling curry-spiked banana blossom filling. Served with ripe banana sauce cooked until it darkens, the curry puff boasted a pungent kick that was a perfect counterpart to the sweet black banana sauce.

As we delved deeper into the melodious sound of a pestle hitting a mortar, created by one of the chefs who was eagerly making the fresh curry paste, our next dish was served and we were sure amazed by its elegant presentation. The firm smoked catfish was minimally enlivened by the fish mousse, fermented coconut cream and tangy pickled kale stem for acidity. Kale crisps and fried betel leaves were also placed stylishly atop the fish to give the much-needed crunch as a toothsome contrast to other soft elements within the dish.

Lover of Thai deep-fried crispy pork will undoubtedly swoon over the main dish – A Dream of Trang BBQ Pork. Helped along with sides like the steamed seasonal mushroom-infused sticky rice and house-made fermented chili sauce, this dish, on its own, was simply a perfect umami-packed meal.

In partnership with Foodie Collection Group by Choti and Debby Leenutaphong (founders of Il Fumo, Vesper, Via Maris, La Dotta and La Dotta La Grassa), the establishment also offers mean cocktails curated by Supawit “Palm” Muttarattana – the restaurant group’s and Vesper’s talented bar manager. We recommend Fon, which is one of their signature cocktails. Made from Grandma Jinn’s, pandan, coconut, hoarfrost, oolong tea and palm sugar, the light saffron-shade drink is perfectly reminiscent of a rainy day with a strong earthy smell from the dirt after rain.

Verdict

80/20’s major refurbishment didn’t wear away the flair of their drive towards contemporary Thai cuisine. It has always been that if you’re craving for toothsome creativity in a Thai dish, here’s where to get it; they serve up modernity rooted in true Thai tastes. Here’s also a place where you can gorge on fine-dining fare and be fully immersed in first-class food and friendly Thai-style hospitality without feeling a bit overwhelmed or choked by any five-star pretentiousness.

Opening Hours: Tue-Sun, 6-11 pm.
Recommended Dishes:  Goat Tartare with Fermented Rice Coconut Crêpe and A Dream of Trang BBQ Pork

Price: THB 3,000++ for the 9-course tasting menu (additional of THB 1,400++ for wine pairing)

Noise Level: Moderate
Service: Attentive and very friendly

80/20, 1052-1054 Charoen Krung 26, Bangrak, Bangkok, +662 234 2822

The post Review: the new 80/20 now pays 100/100 homage to Thai ingredients appeared first on Lifestyle Asia Bangkok.

Don’t we all love surprises? Especially in dining, the thrill of not knowing what the restaurant will serve just creates pure bursts of excitement. That explains the stardom of Japanese omakase — which literally translates as “I’ll leave it up to you” and it is used to describe a concept in which customers leave it up to the chef to choose what they eat. Yet, going for Japanese Omakase in Bangkok right now might be — due to its recent popularity — a bit of a cliche pick. So have you heard of the Italian version? It’s the new hip thing to do if you’re a true food devotee.

Led by Chef Maurizio Menconi, the former Head Chef of La Scala at The Sukhothai Bangkok, White Lies restaurant is the Italian-born chef’s latest mission to fuse Italian cooking with the Japanese concept of a multi-course, no-choice chef’s menu.
Running on an omakase format, White Lies features dishes in the wake of Chef Maurizio’s roots and Italian flavours. But having lived in Thailand since 2003 and having collaborated with some of the world’s most renowned chefs like Massimo Bottura of Osteria Francescana, Alain Passard from France and Pascal Barbot of L’Astrance, the food here has also got a fabulous mix of Asian and international cuisines.

With the menu changing almost daily depending on what the chef can get his hands on during the week and also on what’s in season, diners can expect to immerse fully into the Italian picturesque restaurant brimming with an element of theatre filled with spectacle and surprises. We had the chance to try the food recently. Read on for our full review to get a glimpse of what lies behind White Lies.

Ambience

White Lies houses luxurious meals in a cosy yet refined atmosphere. The five-table, 22-seat dining room boasts crystal and marble furniture and decor that exudes fine-dining luxury. The teakwood open kitchen next to the dining area also provides diners a chance to see its chefs in action. With the full use of wood elements and a rose gold shade throughout, the restaurant is accentuated with warmth — making the haute cuisine-focused restaurant approachable and less formal.

Food

Putting the full-on spotlight on hyper-seasonal and premium imported ingredients, the omakase menu here is priced at THB 5,000, featuring dishes that usually include foie gras, Kobe beef, lobster, Osetra caviar and anything sourced from both domestic and international suppliers and farmers. Mixing Italian cuisine with ingredients from all over the world, a meal here is like indulging in a blend of everyman’s cuisine.

On the day we visited, the chef decided to take us to the shore of his hometown, so we were blessed with an array of seafood-specked dishes like the Tartare-stuffed Edible Seashell, Stir-fried Abalone and Osetra Caviar atop House-made Barley Chips. But as stated above, the menu here changes regularly, depending on whatever produce is on the palms of Chef Maurizio, so diners can expect to always be surprised when dining at White Lies restaurant. And since the omakase menu can get up to 18 courses, each dish will come in one or two-bite portions, just to keep patrons full but not overly stuffed.

Drink

No night is complete without a glass of vino. So White Lies offers an ambitious selection of wine and wine pairing options. Settle for the Wine Lover Tasting (THB 3,400) for a date night or the Classic & Appellation Tasting (THB 8,000) if you love a serious wine-pairing meal. Got a big crowd? Opt for A Great Selection (THB 12,000 for four to six people) or The Stunning Experience (THB 20,000 for four to six people) to elevate the White Lies dining experience to the fullest.

Verdict

Go there for the thrill. If you’re a risk taking kind of a foodie, White Lies can delight — and surprise — your senses with the scrumptious omakase meal made from top-notch ingredients. Brimming with memories, Chef Maurizio’s meal will also welcome you into his childhood, world travels and culinary experiences. Intimate and personal, White Lies is a great example of a restaurant that truly speaks of its creator’s character.

White Lies, The Peninsula Plaza Bangkok, Ratchadamri Rd, Lumphini, Bangkok, +66 65 319 8877, open Monday-Saturday, 6:30-9pm.

The post Review: White Lies by Maurizio Menconi brings us Italian omakase appeared first on Lifestyle Asia Bangkok.

Chef Sujan Sarkar, the man who gave Delhi the hugely popular Ek Bar, known for its cocktails inspired by Indian flavours, is back in the capital with his latest offering — the Baar Baar pop-up. In Delhi for just five months, the Indian gastropub is the second outpost of Chef Sarkar’s successful New York flagship of the same name, and seeks to serve not just a fine dining experience, but a “fine food experience”.
You’ll find here a menu of sharing platters, inspired by Chef Sarkar’s travels around the world, featuring his signature progressive Indian cuisine. There are traditional dishes created using modern techniques and with international influences, giving the oft ambiguous term ‘modern Indian’, a stronger (and much needed) definition.

Ambience

Right at the entrance of Khan Market, the two-storied space is designed by experiential set designer Aaquib Wani, in a style that’s best described as eccentric modern. The gastropub carries a casual air —the first floor is the bar, which opens in the evenings and has a DJ console, and the second floor is all-day dining, with mellow music and sunlight seeping in through the floor to ceiling windows. If you drop in during the day, choose to sit in the inviting balcony to soak in the winter sun.

Food

Kashmiri Duck KulchaSarkar’s Homemade Crisps with Sweet Corn Mousse and Sea Buckthorn Chutney is a good choice for an opener. The can’t-stop-at-one crisps are surprisingly light, and help you save space for the following courses. The mousse is a take on the hummus — while airy in texture, it could pack in a bit more flavour. The chutney carries a sweet-tangy balance, leaning more towards the former. For the main course, the Kashmiri Duck Kulcha is soft as a cloud. The kulcha is topped with sweet apricot offset by a hint of chilli and parmesan, and encases pulled duck within. All the elements come together to form a tasteful bite.

That Chef Sujan knows his meats well is reiterated in the Baar Baar Fried Chicken and Duck Seekh Kebab. The former retains a crackling crust till the end, and the chicken inside is tender to the bone, with an undertone of tandoori flavours. The duck seekh is once again magic. Lighter than a lamb kebab but just as succulent and married with spices, it sits atop a nicely done Ulte Tawe ka Parantha. For vegetarians, there is the Beetroot Murabba, featuring tangy goat cheese. It is accompanied by a beetroot and peanut chop — the breaded and fried ball is a welcome surprise, driving home the progressive Indian cuisine element. A must-try is the Paneer Pinwheel, a rendition of the Shahi Paneer, only better. None of the weightiness of a typical makhni, the curry is made using red peppers with paneer leavened into spirals, paired best with their melt-in-your-mouth naan.
In desserts, the Baked Semolina Cake with house-made milk ice cream, is a take on the traditional sooji halwa – it could’ve been less overloaded than its parent dessert. The Raagi Brownie came with specks of orange chutney and Coorg coffee ice cream, balancing the holy trinity of chocolate, coffee, and orange nicely.
They are soon to get their liquor license, but going by Chef Sujan’s previous undertakings, we’re expecting nothing but idiosyncratic cocktails that pack a punch.

Verdict

With each floor catering to a certain kind of ambience, you can take your pick based on the kind of outing you want. Doing progressive Indian food for over five years now, Chef Sarkar’s skills shine at Baar Baar too. His mix of traditional Indian dishes with international cooking techniques wows the palate, and not just the eyes. The portions work well to satiate the appetite, and you’ll have to make more than one visit to try everything on their menu (which features only 31 items).
Where: 2-3, Khan Market, New Delhi
Opening hours: Mon-Sun, noon to midnight
Recommended dishes: Kashmiri Duck Kulcha, Baar Baar Fried Chicken
Price: INR 1,000-1,500 per person, without drinks
Noise levels: Moderate on the first floor, quiet on the second floor
Service: Responsive and informed about the menu
All images: Courtesy Baar Baar Delhi

The post From Ek Bar to Baar Baar: Chef Sujan Sarkar returns to cast his spell on Delhi  appeared first on Lifestyle Asia Bangkok.

Even in a year with a spate of high-profile celebrity chef-helmed openings  —  including Gordon Ramsay’s Maze Grill and Thai food master David Thompson‘s Aaharn — Ichu Peru, from Chef’s Table star Virgilio Martinez, may just be the most highly anticipated yet. In case you didn’t already know, the influential chef’s flagship restaurant, Central Restaurante in Lima, Peru, (which Martinez co-runs with his wife Pía León), is consistently ranked as one of the top restaurants in the world by World’s 50 Best Restaurants.

Amidst relocating Central to a larger space earlier this year and opening another groundbreaking restaurant near the terraced Inca ruins of Moray — Mil Centro, which offers a mind-blowing experience where the menu is based entirely off what can be grown in the surrounding Andean landscape, 3500 metres above sea level — Martinez has carved out time to debut his first restaurant in Asia right here in Hong Kong, marking a significant milestone in the evolution of our city’s diverse food scene, as Peruvian cuisine continues to have its big moment on the global culinary stage.

Ambience

Located inside H Queen’s, Ichu Peru aims to create a more relaxed and convivial experience compared to that of Central or Mil Centro by replacing the long degustation with an approachable à la carte menu inspired by the myriad cevicherias scattered across the streets of Lima. The restaurant is backed by Dubai-based Bulldozer Group (who brought us the now-shuttered Seafood Room), and it’s no surprise that the glitzy hospitality group has tapped leading Hong Kong restaurant designer Joyce Wang to bring the space to life.

The queen of F&B interiors has splashed her signature stylistic touches all over the space, once again succeeding in reflecting the heart of the cuisine in a thought-provoking and beautiful design — this time inspired by the majestic beauty of Peru, from the rugged Andes to wind-swept coastal plains and the vast expanse of grasslands that sit in between. Natural materials such as stone and slate are used throughout, punctuated by Amazonian-inspired artwork and bright splashes of colour.

Martinez’s cuisine is all about exploring the varying elevations and topography of his home country; Ichu Peru reflects that same sense of movement and natural terrain, with distinct sections carved from the country’s landscape, from the open kitchen fronted by a suspended indoor tree evoking the Peruvian jungle, to private rooms with turquoise slates mounted on a granite wall suggesting the meeting of land and sea. Richly textured materials and rough finishes are seen throughout, while low sofas and dim lighting add a sense of mystique that lends itself well to the progressive plating and gives the restaurant a slightly subterranean feel. Past the open kitchen is an outdoor terrace which can accommodate an additional 85 guests, with views overlooking Pottinger and Stanley Streets.

Food & Drink 

With a name derived from a plant found in the Peruvian Andes, Ichu Peru reflects its Executive Chef’s main mission — to chart a path across Peru’s vast landscape, drawing attention to its deep culinary traditions and the staggering biodiversity of its ecosystems. Leading the kitchen in Hong Kong is Korean-born chef Sang Jeong, Martínez’s protégé who’s relocated to Hong Kong after spending three years in the Central kitchen.

While dining at Central is akin to browsing the vast encyclopedia of Peru’s indigenous ingredients (only tasting menus are available, clocking in at 17 dishes each), Ichu Peru feels an abbreviated version — a condensed à la carte offering with 3–5 dishes under each section of the menu: Tiradito (Raw), Ceviche, Starters, Verduras (salads and vegetables), Tierra (meats) and Mar (fish and seafood), and Side Dishes. In between, the pages are annotated with diagrams and various explanations detailing the indigenous plants, roots and origins of the ingredients.

Our dinner kicks off with the Pez Limon (HK$180) and the Tartar de Lomo Con Maiz (HK$140). The former features delicate chunks of fresh yellowtail languishing in a pool of leche de tigre, hidden under a precarious stack of twisted sweet potato strips. A staple of Peruvian cuisine, the leche de tigre here packs a wallop of flavour, delivering a throat-punching intensity of citrus and chillies, onions, jalapeños and mouth-puckering yuzu. The large-variety Peruvian corn known as choclo adds a necessary starchiness to offset the sour and spicy flavours of the dish — a formidable opener to kick off the meal.

The bright clarity of flavours continues in our next dish of beef tenderloin tartare. Cut into larger chunks, the fresh beef is mixed with a carob molasses, a thickened syrup drawn from the algarrobo tree in Peru. A bright ring of yellow purée gives the plate a sunny disposition, serving to not only pretty up a traditionally dull-looking dish, but also saluting another one of Peru’s central ingredients. Here, fresh maíz is blended into a brilliantly silky purée, drawing fire from an undercurrent of aji amarillo chillies. Like the ceviche, the tartare is completed by crispy decorative elements — this time wafer-thin sheets of dried corn staked into the beef at odd geometric angles.

Though our taste buds are electrified, we’re starting to realise that portions are smaller than expected — and thus opt for the Arroz Uni (HK$190) as a quick fix to sate our appetites. Uni rice is ubiquitous around town these days, and while Ichu Peru’s packs more briny, sea urchin flavour into each individual grain than many other haphazard executions around town, accentuated by the bright orange tongues which dot the surface — we find the dish to be a little one-dimensional, and fail to detect the aji chillies that are meant to thrust the dish into Peruvian territory.

The sea bass (or Pez Amazonia) is one of the star dishes on the menu at Ichu and all eyes are immediately drawn to the colourful presentation as the dish hits the table. Drawing fragrance and smoke from ‘ashed’ banana leaves, the baked fish is tender and succulent throughout — the mild-flavoured flesh bolstered by a vibrant tamarillo sauce infused with rocoto peppers, lime and coriander. A rainbow assortment of toppings are reminiscent of the ceviche: diced red onion and tomato, sweet corn and generous splashes of lime. The size of the fish leaves a little to be desired, however: For HK$420, it’s meant to feed two, but could easily be polished off by one modestly hungry diner.

Finally, we cap off our meal with the Coliflor Asada (HK$100), a whole cauliflower head roasted and heavily charred until every bit of outer floret has been singed to an attractive crispness. The cauliflower cuts through like butter and is plopped down on a ring of Peruvian sheep’s milk cheese and Andean mint purée; the former rather gummy, the latter imbued with the vivacity of herbs freshly plucked from the garden.

Desserts offer eight variations to choose from — each featuring an intriguing mix of ingredients from goat cheese with quinoa and raspberry to aji, pimiento and dried cacao. While the Semilla de Cacao is the most eye-catching dessert of the bunch, our server advises us not to order it (it’s still under experimentation, she says), and instead recommends the signature Tres Leches (HK$90), a decadent combination of sponge bread drenched in sweet condensed milk, offset by a tart and refreshing carrot sorbet and crisp meringue shards.

Cocktails are one of the highlights of the menu, and should be consumed freely throughout the meal. They play with the same pool of indigenous, idiosyncratic ingredients as the food, and are exceptionally well balanced, from the Amazonia Vida (HK$120), a vegetal tonic which draws its herbaceous flavour and bright green colour from chlorophyll mixed with Genever gin and native roots; to the El Milagro (HK$150), a dessert-like mix of mezcal, nutty orgeat, amontillado (sherry wine) and purple popcorn. The signature Ichu Pisco Sour (HK$120) is another winner, Peru’s national cocktail elevated with the potent flavours of saffron and eucalyptus.

Verdict 

Peruvian cuisine still lies very much on the fringe of mainstream dining — which makes the full 3-hour tasting at Martinez’s other restaurants as much an educational and enlightening experience as it is a profoundly pleasurable one. While the chef’s establishments in Peru operate as harmonious multi-part symphonies, traipsing through the highs and lows of various elevations and terrains while showcasing the full scope of the Peruvian landscape with intricate and detailed compositions — the menu at Ichu Peru, in comparison, can feel disparate, with indigenous ingredients making cameo appearances without due pause for explanation or study.

The format is slightly at odds: On one hand, dishes aren’t quite large enough to share with a group; on the other, dining for two doesn’t allow you to get a full picture of the groundbreaking creativity found in Martinez’ brilliant vein of cooking and the sheer diversity of Peru’s produce (the menu at Central features something like 230 ingredients, while Ichu Peru must largely source from local Hong Kong produce). In fact, seeing a table of two diners pick over a single charred avocado half (the Palta Quemada, HK$100) is a bit dismal — a dish that would undoubtedly have its rightful place within a much longer tasting menu presented with more focus and dedication.

Menu technicalities aside, however, most everything we tried at Ichu Peru was well executed and fundamentally delicious. And while the restaurant may not fully exploit Martinez’ genius, it still supplies Hong Kong with one of its most successful and sophisticated materialisations of Peruvian cuisine yet, in an accessible and more affordable medium (when you consider the price of the US$130 tasting menu at Central, much less the cost of a flight to South America) — which was, after all, the chef’s primary mission from the get-go. While the food might not reach the very peaks of the Andes, there are plenty of highs to sustain several trips to Ichu Peru to start unravelling the complexities of one of the world’s great and, until very recently, vastly underrated cuisines.

Opening Hours: Mon–Fri 12–2:30pm, 6–10:30pm; Sat–Sun 6–10:30pm.
Recommended Dishes: Ceviche Clasico, Pez Limon, Tartar de Lomo con Maiz, Quinoa, Coliflor Asada, Lomo Saltado, Pez Amazonia.
Price: HK$600–$800 per person with drinks.
Noise Level: Moderate; suitable for date nights.
Service: Responsive, though not particularly informed on ingredients.

Ichu Peru, 3/F, H Queen’s, 80 Queen’s Road Central, Central, Hong Kong, +852 2477 7717

The post Review: Virgilio Martinez’ Ichu takes Hong Kong’s Peruvian food scene to new altitudes appeared first on Lifestyle Asia Bangkok.

Multi-sensorial dining experience typically involves scents, liquid nitrogen, fire and sometimes interaction with a dish. The way each dish is plated serves as a window for another picture-perfect moment.

Shangri-La Kuala Lumpur’s Executive Chef Olivier Pistre takes this interpretation to a whole new level with the new Five Elements menu, the chef’s creative take on reinterpreting modern European cuisine inspired by forces of nature. The new menu, which is now available at Lafite, employs the intrinsically complex and abstract concept of the five elements of life – Wood, Earth, Fire, Metal and Water – into fundamentally French cuisine.

“The cuisine is based on fresh, top quality produce prepared in a traditional fashion but drawing on the latest techniques. I want to create an imaginary type of dish to provide a sensorial, generous and emotional dining experience,” says chef Olivier.

True enough, it lives up to its creed with clever dishes that balance each element. Just as how water nourishes the earth, and wood fuels fire, each dish that is created for a specific element tells a unique story. Like the Earth element menu, chef Olivier incorporates the ingredients such as duck, truffle, root vegetables and dark chocolate to give the earthiness and understated flavours of ‘earth’. Each course from starter to main and dessert has been curated to represent the qualities of the element. 

What’s your element?

As you walk into Lafite, you’ll be asked to key in your date of birth to find your ‘element’. A personalised experience begins with specially crafted cocktails that represent the respective elements. Try the Metal Fizz if your element is Metal, a potent mix of Absolu Elyx Vodka, dry white wine, elderflower and lemon. Otherwise, Inferno is a refreshing concoction for the Fire element with a mixture of Jamaican rum, Sambuca and freshly squeezed grapefruit and lime.

If you have a strong appetite, the Metal menu combines the right choices for you. Start off with Mussels Sauce Poulette with Pommes Grenailles (RM63). Enjoy a large pot of succulent mussels in herbaceous cream sauce served with poached baby potatoes.

There is a choice between Red Snapper (RM158) or Slow Cooked Spicy Lamb Shoulder (RM158) for the mains. The fish is a beautiful take on the local ikan goreng – nicely spiced and seasoned – and served with tangy croutons and fried capers. Adding fried capers elevates the dish with a strong flavour that is sharp, but at the same time complementary.

The lamb shoulder, on the other hand, is delightfully paired with smoked eggplant, coriander sable, pomegranate gel and parmesan gnocchi. Each component works together but best to take a bite on the lamb, then the sable, gnocchi and smoked eggplant – in that order. The charred flavours offer an interesting taste; cancelling the need for the typical mint sauce.

For the ladies, it is recommended to take on the Fire menu or the delicate Water element that offer a great selection of seafood including scallop, tiger prawn and octopus. The Grilled Octopus (RM158) comes highly recommended, served with corn cream, arugula paste and black garlic sauce. Shavings of pecorino romano add a sharp taste to counter the richness of the three distinct sauces.

The dessert menu is also quite the spectacle. If you stay in the Metal element, Chef Olivier’s Cherries’ Surprise (RM42) is worth every bite – especially the rich and tart cherry ice cream. If you’d like to balance the creaminess of the mussels and lamb, go ahead and order the Candied Lemon (RM42) in the Water repertoire; which comes with Limoncello Espuma, caramel crumble and lemon sorbet. The espuma foam is light on the palate and paired with the zesty touch of lemon.

For something richer, Earth’s Valrhona ‘Manjari’ 64% Grand Cru Chocolate (RM42) is definitely worth every spoonful. There is a certain lightness that the Chocolate Espuma and meringue offer, which counter the richness of the vanilla creme anglaise. Dark chocolate soil adds crunch and texture, while depicting the ‘soil’ itself. When eaten together, all three courses come together with a surprise — but in a very unexpected way.

Chef Olivier has definitely pushed the boundaries this time with his Five Elements menu, especially with such creativity that is well balanced, controlled and innovative. This may be his first pop-up concept that is definitely worth trying, but we are sure to keep an eye on what else Chef Olivier has to offer. All we have to do now is to wait and see.

Opening Hours: 
Lunch
12.00pm – 2.30pm (Mon – Fri)

Dinner
7.00pm – 10.30pm (Mon to Sat & Public Holidays)

Closed on Sunday

Recommended dishes: Mussels Sauce Poulette with Pommes Grenailles, Australian Beef Short Rib and Candied Lemon

Price: 3-course menu RM260++ / Wine pairing RM70

Service: Friendly and attentive

Ambience: Casual

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Thailand native food is flourishing in popularity, but to some Thais and the out-of-towners, many dishes and ingredients still remain unfamiliar. Luckily for us, with Sawaan, a new fine dining Thai restaurant opening its door a few months back, the much-lauded venue under the helm of Fred Meyer, whose restaurant empire (Issaya and Pizza Massilia) has pleased the discerning taste buds of connoiseurs, is bringing to the table authentic and hard-to-find Thai delights, leading by the mastermind, Sujira “Aom” Pongmorn.

Honed over years of experience at Lord Jim’s, Sra Bua, The House On Sathorn, Issaya Siamese Club and at the Michelin-awarded Baan Padthai, Chef Aom’s fresh and innovative perspective is something that’s clearly evident in her first menu for Saawaan which places great emphasis on showcasing the Siamese taste, traditional cooking techniques, and locally sourced ingredients — in the realm of fine-dining. Undoubtedly, you may have had authentic Thai food in Bangkok before but true to its name, Saawaan (literally translates “heaven” in Thai), this refined restaurant and its five-star makeover menu will elevate your Thai-food experience into something of a sky-high excellence.

Ambience

Nestled in Suan Phlu, the bustling neighbourhood with its status as a dining hotspot in Bangkok’s Business District, the former sushi house has turned into a humble den of Thai cuisine. Entering the venue, Saawaan’s design aesthetic nods to its name of ‘heaven’ and focus on Thainess: Dimly lit with golden lights, dark wooden floors, wooden table and black walls, peppered with Thai painting-inspired, cloud-shaped metal decorations and flower-printed wallpapers, adding a touch of warmth to the cold decor. Featuring only 24 seats and another 6-seat counter at the bar slash prep station where you can watch the chef and her team in action, Saawaan creates a space that’s unapologetically elegant but at the same time serene and intimate.

Food

Mimicking a typical Thai meal which usually consists of chilli-based dips,  salads, stir-fries, curries and grilled or fermented dishes, the menu is a one-pager listing, splitting into 10 courses with each one representing the technique commonly used in traditional Thai food or what you can find on Thai families’ dinner tables.

The meal began with Chef Aom stood by our table side whipping up Koi Pla, a raw salad comprised of roughly chopped amberjack fish, toasted sticky rice powder and a party of pungent Thai herbs served simply on a banana leave. One absolute dish that provided a bracing starter to a meal with delicate yet powerful flavours.

Lover of Thai relish will swoon over the next dish of Nam Prik, the Thai chilli-based dip made of premier crab fat and fiery curry paste, which the chef served on a halved crab shell along with the velvety sticky rice cooked in coconut milk. As playful as it was delicious, this is a traditional Thai dip reimagined.

Our favourite dish was Naem Nua Khao Tod, a play on a popular Isaan street food comprised of fried curried rice salad, with one-week fermented organic beef brisket replacing Thai fermented pork sausage. Topped off with a confetti of golden-fried young ginger and a side of tangy and crisp pickled cucumber, this made each mouthful a beautiful medley of textures and flavours, enchanting us to want to scoop up every last bit.

Next up we were delighted with the luscious Kai Kati Khao Luem Pua which you’ll appreciate after the flavourful rice salad. The dish was the oft-forgotten coconut milk curry from central Thailand, served with chicken roulade, bathed in a sweet and sour pineapple sauce, and paired with pineapple pieces grilled until caramelised and a side of the Forgot Husband Rice, which was the highlight of the dish. Known for its nuttiness and soft texture, this black glutinous rice was so delicious that it may make the wife devour all the rice and forget that her husband hasn’t eaten yet.

The dessert menu was well rounded with the modern take on Sangkaya Fak Thong, a silky smooth Thai coconut custard made with Thong Ampai pumpkin purée and coconut milk, which showcased the domain of pastry chef Arisar “Paper” Chongphanitkul, Saawaan’s chef patissier and also the executive pastry chef of Issaya Siamese Club. Rich, luscious, and subtle, it was the kind of dessert that relied solely on the true nature of the ingredients.

At the end of the Saawaan experience, we were also treated to a tray of mignardises paying homage to Thai indulgent treats. Resting elegantly on a wood tray were bite-sized sweets including the durian-flavoured chocolate and som saa tart to end the meal with exotic flavours.

Verdict

Thai food plays with an array of flavours: Sweet, salty, spicy and sour — all for the sake of creating umami-rich food, which Saawaan is placing great importance on to maximum tastes while keeping the balance of Thai cuisine in great shape. The menu is a feast of flavours and it’s really all about simplicity and refinement. The service also showed signs of a passionate and enthusiastic team, exuding warm and welcoming hospitality to bring us an impeccable dining experience that is worth another visit further afield.

Opening Hours: Wed-Mon, 6pm-11pm
Price: THB 1,950++ per person, THB 2,350++ per person for wine pairing and THB 680++ for tea pairing.
Noise Level: Quiet.
Service: Friendly and acknowledgeable.

Saawaan, 39/19 Soi Suan Plu, Sathorn Road, Bangkok, +662 679 3775

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A bar fit for the world’s most famous secret agent, Vesper quickly became one of the city’s most popular dining and drinking destinations since its opening in April 2014. The brainchild of husband and wife Choti and Debby Leenutaphong, Vesper was inspired by the couple’s time in London, seeking the source of a James Bond novel for its sleek namesake. Since then, the Silom hotspot has shaken and stirred together countless awards, most notably ranking in Asia’s 50 Best Bars for three consecutive years.

After a quick renovation in November of last year, the original Vesper was split into Mediterranean bistro Via Maris to the left, and the all-new Vesper Cocktail Bar to the right, allowing the latter to focus entirely on its much-loved cocktail creations. With a refreshed menu inspired by the Modern Art movement of the 1860-1970s, we recently visited the renaissanced Vesper Cocktail Bar to sample a sip of their creative and experimental interplay of art and mixology.

Ambiance

Vesper Cocktail Bar gets its name from the famous Vesper Cocktail: a gin, vodka, and Kina Lillet Martini invented by Ian Fleming in the 1953 James Bond novel ‘Casino Royale’. And indeed, between the pine green marble bar, pink chairs, gold accents, and warm daft punk lights, there’s a flair here that is easily reminiscent of a Mayfair hotel bar, with an eclectic twist. It’s intimate enough to enjoy a private conversation at one of the tables, yet open enough to chat with passionate bar manager Palm about his inspired concoctions. Upbeat yet unobtrusive tunes mingle between tables and tales, honed by a private playlist especially created by the owners and members of the Vesper team. Every Friday night, a DJ spins a combination of 80s synth, disco Motown, and nu-electro funk, which we are told is easily one of the finest evenings in town. It’s glamorous yet in no way intimidating here, and there is a laid-back ease that feels old-school, moody, broody, and yet very, very cool.

Drinks 

Draining out the crowds of Convent Road right outside with its smooth, heavy curtains, Vesper’s interior could easily steal the show, yet it is the drinks menu that really entices anyone that comes here. A menu with cocktails bearing interesting names will always tally up cool points to any location, yet Vesper ups the ante far beyond with a cocktail list that is well-curated and beautifully presented. Dubbed ‘The Art Book’, the menu features a selection of over 50 classic and modern classic cocktails, inclusive of a collection of 15 Modern Art-inspired showstoppers. It’s like an art gallery by the glass, as each of the specialty beverages have been inspired by a specific art piece, deciphered and reinterpreted in fluid form.

The first cocktail we were served was the ‘Seated Woman with Bent Knee’, inspired by the 1917 painting of the same name by Egon Shiele. Made with spices-infused Tanqueray, dry Vermouth, apricot, passionfruit, grapefruit, and tonic, the orange-hued drink is a refreshing one to start with, and packs a spicy punch of personality — much like a lady. The flavours are sweet and zesty, yet with a fizz and a tang, giving off an air of mischief, just like the woman in the portrait.

Next we were presented with a cocktail inspired by František Kupka’s 1924 cubist painting ‘La Forme de Bleu’, which explores the absolute primacy of blue colour, and the many layers it entails. Fittingly bright blue in colour, the elegant cocktail is made with Diplomatico Planas, Diplomatico Reserva Exclusiva, coffee-infused Vermouth, Blue Curaçao, lemon, and egg white, topped with a blue sugar garnish. Whilst the appearance in itself already holds distinct layers, the interpretation of the painting goes further to develop deep nuances in flavour. We were welcomed by a soft egg white froth first, before diving into the fresh hints of the Blue Curaçao, and a subtly surprising velvety coffee after-taste. It’s an unsuspecting sip, and yet wholly intriguing.

One of Vesper’s best-selling cocktails, ‘The Flower Carrier’ inspired by the 1935 painting by Diego Riviera consists of a Bacardi Carta Blanca, Malfy con Limone, Chardonnay wine, Osmanthus tea from Northern Thailand, and lemon. Delicately assembled with utmost precision and a tweezer, the fine cocktail is garnished with a colourful selection of real flowers — almost a craft in itself. Like summer in an iced goblet, it’s easy to see why this fragrant and feminine choice proves a popular one for avid ‘grammers, and brings into bloom a beautifully South American cocktail with a touch of local Thai beauty.

Perhaps our favourite of the book, the Jackson Pollock-inspired ‘Autumn Rhythm No.30’ holds a jazzy, snazzy note of flavour, much-fitting with Vesper’s interior concept. Made with Bulleit Bourbon, Mount Gay Black Barrel, truffle oil, dried figs, cacao powder, and maple syrup, the cocktail boasts a coloured array of autumnal flavours. Just as we were about to reach in for a sip, skilful bar manager Palm lit the accompanying bay leaf on fire, immediately emitting a smoky aroma, much like that of a bonfire on a New York rooftop in November. It’s a strong and sophisticated cocktail, yet is not overwhelmed by its truffle scent, nor the melodious taste of the white chocolate-covered fig that is served alongside it. The ingredients read as if they could not work with one another, yet much like an abstract painting, come together to create something that is expressive, and deeply impressive.

Our last cocktail of the night was the ‘Message from the Forest’, inspired by the 1936 surrealist painting by Marie Čermínová, most commonly known by her pseudonym ‘Toyen’. Featuring earthy and woody flavour notes, the cocktail is made with Bulleit Rye, beetroot, kaffir lime, dill, and ginger beer. It’s a haunting yet majestic cocktail, whereby the glass is first smoked with cloves, almost reaching out as if to lure you into Toyen’s mystical woods.

Whatever path you may take, Vesper’s art-inspired cocktails sit before their sippers waiting to be explored. You don’t have to be an art aficionado to enjoy them, yet can become a collector of sorts through a flourished flick of their new menu. As Palm explains to us, many customers come to Vesper simply to savour the flavours, both because of the brush strokes that inspired them, and dreamily unbeknownst to them.

Verdict

Well-researched and beautifully executed, it’s hard not to fall entranced to the charm of this warm European vintage-style bar. From canvas to coupe, there is love and thought in every detail — from the elaborate presentation of drinks to the endearingly illustrated coasters. Kick back with cocktails that in themselves are tantalising conversation starters, and let them paint your town red (or Hockney green, Warhol pink, Curaçao blue), and it’ll be easy to see why so many bid high for Vesper as their preferred evening out. Where picturesque interiors and well-functioning air conditioning are paramount in Bangkok, these are achievable almost anywhere; yet in a city with so many new bars popping up every day, to keep loyal customers always coming back for more is an art form that Vesper Cocktail bar has truly and deeply mastered.

Opening Hours: Mon–Sun, 5.30pm–1.00am
Price: Cocktails range from THB360–THB440 per drink.
Noise Level: Lively but not loud, vibing, vivacious.
Service: Friendly and attentive.

Vesper Cocktail Bar, 10/15 Convent Road, Silom, Bangkok, +6622352777

The post Bar Review: Vesper Cocktail Bar and The Art Book appeared first on Lifestyle Asia Bangkok.

Previous Toot Yung and Pandora Art galleries is now home to Cuisine de Garden, Ekkamai’s nature-inspired standalone establishment. This is where chef and co-owner Leelawat “Nan” Mankongtiphan works his magic to create a six-course set menu that he defines as modern cuisine; a combination of French cooking techniques, Thai wisdom and a dash of modern gastronomy.

Using quality ingredients sourced from the Royal Project farms and local producers, chef Nan recreates the beauty of nature on the plate, which does not only surprises the taste buds with creative twists — it is also an artistic masterpiece that calls for instagram snaps.

Ambience

Nestled quietly in the street of Ekkamai Soi 2, the jungle themed restaurant has been airlifted from Chiang Mai and landed in one of Bangkok’s trendiest areas. With bare tree trunks popping up from the darkwood flooring and black granite tables, with magical fairy lights reminiscent of a starry night or a sky flooded with lively fireflies, the setting of Cuisine de Garden was designed to create an imaginative garden that complements the concept of the restaurant.

The dining room is consisted of a simple yet elegant bar and a wine cellar, featuring an extensive selection of great wines and drinks that will undoubtedly elevate the meal. Those who want to savour the nature-inspired dishes surrounded by nature will enjoy an al freso dining experience in the back garden of the restaurant.

Food

Divided into four main chapters, this six-course menu tells the stories behind each dish by placing side by side the descriptions of each course and pictures of nature that the dishes took inspiration from.

We started off the meal with Coast to Coast, an exquisite selection of appetisers composed of the best produce from the sea; shrimp, mussel, salmon, and blue crab, all seasoned and flavoured with the key ingredient in Thai cooking, kaffir lime.

Next up was Soil, a mashup of sweet and savory flavours thoughtfully layered with chopped beef tartare mixed with shallots to add extra texture to the dish before it was seasoned with restaurant’s special sauce. And instead of having it topped with a velvety yolk like traditional beef tartare, the whole thing was buried in powdered charcoal ice cream. Simply delicious. We took several wonderful bites and wished it would never end. Garnished with crispy beetroot and an underrated northeastern vegetable “Pak Kayang”, we almost felt tricked into eating actual soil, in an elegant way, of course.

Another standout was Nest. Presented deceptively like a real nest where a mother bird lays eggs, the dish was delicately made with crispy rice vermicelli, topped with pulled chicken and an intact onsen egg. And no, don’t expect the egg to be cracked — we had to break the egg on our own and surprisingly, it was quite a satisfying experience.

For the next dish, chef Nan impressed us with unimaginable ways of using different parts of a banana. Using mashed unripe banana, crispy fried banana stalk, and smoky grilled banana leaf sauce to pair with grilled miso-marinated halibut, Gluay was surely a creation surprised our palates with the simplest ingredients.

For dessert, lovers of pandan should try Catus. A new take on canelé, this cactus-like French pastry was filled with crème anglaise, pandan gel, preserved pumpkin and dusted with pandan powder. Creative and packed with vanilla flavours from the pandan leaves, this marks the perfect finale of the four chapters.

But we didn’t forget about the last course of the set menu: Stone. Served with a tray filled with actual smooth stones, we had to find out which ones were the chocolates camouflaged among them. Be careful though, as we didn’t expect the roselle and tamarind fillings to be in liquid form, which caught us off guard when we bit into it.

Verdict

Cuisine de Garden truly captures the essence of nature in its six-course menu, and those looking for a genuine dining experience in the heart of Bangkok should not miss out this hidden oasis. Bold flavours and confidence with adventurous cuisines make Cuisine de Garden one to try, led by the expertise of chef Nan. While the experience can get a bit gimmicky at times, the restaurant hits the target where it counts the most: a reasonably priced set menu that deliver on big flavours and presentation. For casual group dinners or a switch up in your weekly date night routine, Cuisine de Garden is a solid new option for a night out on the town.

Opening Hours : Mon-Sun, 6pm–11pm.
Price : From THB 1500++, excluding drinks.
Noise Level : Quiet.
Service : Friendly and knowledgeable.

Cuisine de Garden Bangkok, 12/6 Ekkamai soi 2, Bangkok, +66 61626 2816

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