So we talked drinks and guest shifts with Matteo Cadeddu of Opium Bar

From Sardinia with love, this bar manager’s approach to drinks is nothing short of benissimo. Ladies and gentlemen, Matteo Caddedu of Opium.

Cocktail enthusiasts of Bangkok adore Opium (the bar, not the addictive substance that sparked the war between China and Great Britain from 1839-1842). No. 59 on the Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2023 list and No. 8 on Thailand’s 20 Best Bars, their seasonal cocktail menu involves over 50 spirits. When you arrive at Opium, you’re welcomed by the feeling of comfort, and especially for those coming in for the first time, a sense of contrast.

Five minutes ago you were walking down the crowded Yaowarat road, and now you sit in a serene, opulent speakeasy, glancing at rows of spirits, experiencing pristine hospitality, and is that a gravity bong on the counter?

So we walked down Vanich 1 road, missed Potong, walked back to Potong, entered the most narrow elevator we’ve ever been in, and talked to Matteo Caddedu. Here’s how it went.

[Hero and featured image credit: Opium Bar]

So we talked drinks and guest shifts with Matteo Cadeddu of Opium Bar

First things first. What exactly is Opium’s concept?

The concept of ‘Liquid Surreality’ has been present in Opium since its beginning, but what does it mean?

“This exact floor used to be the bedroom of Chef Pam’s great-great-great grandfather when he moved from China.” Matteo explains, “The family used to come to this room and smoke opium, so we wanted to keep the spirit of the place alive. Of course, we can’t offer opium so we wanted to give a similar feeling to smoking opium — distorting reality through cocktails and making you wonder what is in each glass. Playing with senses; that’s ‘Liquid Surreality.'”

With so many signature cocktails, do you have a favourite drink on the new menu?

“There are a few cocktails I really like in particular, and I’m more on the spirit-forward side. There’s the “Elegantissimo,” which is a drink we added as a competition menu (Flor De Cana Sustainable Challenge 2022), the “Teochew Negroni,” a twist on the classic using grass jelly, and the “Sun Tan,” which is a cross between the Manhattan and the Vieux Carré using hojicha and chocolate.”

If you’re not in the mood for a spirit-forward, the bar manager also recommends the “Where’s My Beer?,” a mezcal-based cocktail with cordial made from IPA and chamomile, and topped with Campari air.

In your opinion, what makes a good cocktail?

“A good cocktail needs balance. You put some ingredients into a glass and that makes a cocktail, but those ingredients need to be in harmony with one another. Nothing should overpower other ingredients, so I’d say balance is key. The glass is also a vessel to enhance a cocktail and make sure you’re delivering all the senses you want to the guest.”

Spirit-forward, sweet-and-sour, refreshing, which is the hardest to get right?

“In sweet-and-sours and refreshing cocktails, the hard part is the acidity. No one likes overly sweet or overly sour drinks, so you need to get the balance between the acidity and the sugar right. That’s why we try to make a lot of syrups and acids in house, so we can control how sweet or sour something is. Sometimes we use tonic instead of water and sugar for dilution so we have a lighter sweetness.”

“For spirit-forwards, the sweet part is key, since it’s how you balance a lot of spirit-forwards. It can be tricky to balance, as you want to highlight the spirits and don’t want the sweetness to overpower. I think this is the hardest one to get right.”

Why is the Negroni your favourite classic cocktail?

“”I’m Italian” doesn’t mean that’s the reason [why it’s my favourite classic cocktail], but we’re used to the bitter taste from our aperitivo culture since a very young age. We have Crodino, and other aperitifs that are non-alcoholic, too. So, the bitter taste, in a way, reminds me of my home. It feels very personal, and being overseas, the Negroni brings me back home.”

What is the most underrated classic cocktail?

“The Last Word,” Matteo answers.

The Last Word is a pre-prohibition era cocktail made from gin, green Chartreuse, maraschino liqueur, and lime juice. At Opium, they opt out the lime juice for lemon juice. For those who haven’t tried it, the drink is a balanced combination of sweet, sour, and a little bit of bitter — something complex enough for enthusiasts but refreshing enough for being the first glass after work.

“It’s a great cocktail, but not so mainstream. It has its sour agent, and no sugar added as the sweetness comes from the liqueur. So what you get is something that feels boozy, but very refreshing as a product. Anyone that appreciates a good cocktail will certainly enjoy the Last Word, and I hope it can become more mainstream.”

Opium famously hosts quite a lot of guest shifts. Which one was the craziest and why?

Matteo says, “I’ll give you two stories.”

“The third guest shift we did since we opened was during Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2022, and we got Le Chamber from Korea and Isac Melander, Global Brand Ambassador of Naked Malt. We went through 24 bottles of Naked Malt, and it was insane. I remember one of the guys from Le Chamber had a funnel in a guy’s mouth with three people pouring alcohol into it at the same time. I forgot everything after that.”

“The second one that comes to mind is Federico Balzarini from Argo and previously from Vesper. It was a fun night, and he cooked pasta right here at the bar counter.”

The bar has shot to fame really quickly after opening. Is there a secret to its success?

“I wouldn’t say secret, but what we value a lot is people. We work closely together in the bar, and we show each other support when there’s a competition. People is the key to success. Of course, the management pushes us to where we are today, but the ones working directly behind the bar need to be the best version of themselves.”

“When Julie went to the Flor de Cana competition, the whole team flew to Phuket to support her. I think that’s one of reasons we are achieving so much today.”

When you’re not at Opium, where can we find you?

“I don’t really go out much with events here and there, but I sometimes swing by Tropic City since it’s on my way back home so it’s great to go in for a quick drink. I take the guest bartenders to BKK Social Club and Vesper often. I don’t really have a favourite, it just depends on the area I’m in.”

Lastly, what would you say to your younger self?

“All the hard work paid off. I struggled a lot, but now I’m here. Good job, man.”

Opium Bar is located on the 4th floor of Potong restaurant, 422 Vanich 1 Rd, Samphanthawong, Bangkok, Thursday – Monday, 5pm-12am