It isn’t often that diners are lucky enough to catch Chef Francisco ‘Paco’ Ruano in Bangkok. The award-winning chef behind Guadalajara’s renowned Alcalde (no. 54 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2023) is also the mastermind behind one of city’s most beloved Mexican restaurants: Ojo Bangkok. Catching up over bone marrow and tortillas, we managed to get the celebrity chef to spill a few of his best-kept dining secrets. Read on for Chef Paco’s top recommendations for a chef’s cheat day in Bangkok.
Ojo Bangkok caused quite the stir when it opened last year, bringing something as beautiful as it was culinarily exciting to the local dining scene. Perched atop The Standard, Bangkok Mahanakhon, as the crown jewel of the city’s tallest building, Ojo opened its doors with much pizzaz, welcoming the city’s most glitz and glam to sample Chef Paco’s refreshing take on Mexican cuisine.
Gathering experience in the kitchens of the Basque Country’s Mugaritz, Girona’s El Celler de Can Roca, and Denmark’s renowned Noma, Chef Francisco ‘Paco’ Ruano was named Latin America’s One To Watch in 2016 shortly after opening his award-winning Alcalde restaurant, a few years before taking on the reigns at Ojo Bangkok.
Speaking on his latest venture, Chef Paco is proud of the menu at Ojo. Authentic recipes are met with modern presentations, and playful, often Asian-inspired touches. During our chat, we manage to sample a few of the signatures, including coconut ceviche, slow-cooked lamb shank with mezcal salsa, bone marrow with khao khua brulée, and a fantastic grilled fish with chilli and coriander adobo. It is a messy-good meal, enjoyed with fresh tortillas, juices dripping down our hands and fiery salsas refilled for our dining pleasure. Chef Paco even admits himself, “When I’m away, I crave food from Ojo. I travel a lot and sometimes I’m in a city and say, “my god, I wish I had an Ojo nearby!” He laughs.
It’s a fair point, given that the celebrity chef is often travelling. Chef Paco has few days off, but we would soon come to learn that he really enjoys his days away from the kitchen whenever he can, and wherever in the world he may be. Describing Thailand as one of his new “favourite food destinations,” read on for where Chef Paco spends a cheat day in Bangkok — and where you need to head should you ever wind up in his home country of Mexico.
Chef’s Cheat Day: Francisco ‘Paco’ Ruano shares his must-visit spots in Bangkok (and Mexico)
Whenever he’s in Bangkok, visiting Vaso Spanish Tapas Bar has become a tradition for Chef Paco
“It has become a little bit of a tradition that I arrive here, and during the first days, I go to visit my friend Palanca at Vaso.”
One of the most popular and inarguably one of the most lively restaurants in Langsuan, Vaso’s reputation precedes it. The aforementioned Chef Alvaro Ramos, amiably known as ‘Palanca,’ brings a vibrant energy to the contemporary tapas-style restaurant, where loud beats are met with a series of indulgent bites. From jamón and croquettes to paella and Spanish cheesecake, it’s always a good time at Vaso, and doesn’t Chef Paco know it.
Find out more at Vaso Spanish Tapas Bar.
He enjoys a glass (or several) at Mod Kaew Wine Bar
“I’m very happy now because the wine bar Mod Kaew has just moved across the street from us. They saved me a 10-minute bike ride.”
A must-visit for a fun night of natural wine drinking, Mod Kaew Wine Bar recently relocated to Sathorn Soi 12 from Phloen Chit. Featuring many bottles you won’t find anywhere else, there is also a noteworthy menu of bar bites to suit, in an ambience of cool cats who really know and love their wine.
Find out more at Mod Kaew Wine Bar.
In China Town, it’s all about crab curry and pig’s feet
Like us, Chef Paco likes to head to China Town for some good ol’ late-night cravings. Whilst he doesn’t recall the precise names of his favourite street-side haunts, he has a few recommendations for must-try dishes.
“Every time I’m here, I try to go to this crab curry place in China Town. I just don’t know the name. They have crabs in a fish tank, and the curry is spicy. Very spicy. Spicy, like, I get tears.”
“In China Town, I like to have that, and also pig’s feet cooked in soy sauce. This has become one of my favourite dishes that I eat here in Bangkok. I just don’t know how to pronounce it.”
Chef Paco loves the vibes and the pineapples at Tropic City
“Honestly, I think the coolest-looking bar is Tropic City. I love it a lot. I love the neon pineapple kind of vibe that it has.”
One of the most beloved bars in Charoenkrung, Tropic City has really cemented itself in the hearts of locals and visitors to Bangkok over the years. Ranking at no. 6 on Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2023 and no. 24 on the World’s 50 Best Bars 2022, the exotic bar helmed by Sebastian De La Cruz and Philip Stefanescu has long been an industry favourite. A young, fun crowd gets together here to enjoy the live DJ sets and an array of tropical cocktails (and the neon flamingoes, too).
Find out more at Tropic City.
He recommends the tacos at La Lupita Bangkok
“There is one place that I highly recommend for a super casual taco craving, and that is La Lupita. I have become really good friends with the Mexican chefs in the kitchen. The tacos really taste the way the Mexican tacos should taste in the street.”
La Lupita is located in Silom, and is a popular spot especially for tacos. As Chef Paco details, the tacos here are praised for their authentic preparation, and no-fuss all-satisfying flavour. Often holding special events and celebrations (Cinco de Mayo, Mexican Independence Day, and Taco Tuesdays, no less), La Lupita Taqueria has established itself as a fail-safe taco spot serving all the classics with all the trimmings.
Find out more at La Lupita.
For an under-the-radar recommendation, it’s got to be Midsummer Night’s Dream
“I really want to go back to Midsummer Night’s Dream. It’s pretty under the radar, but an amazing place to have drinks. It’s very quiet but very sophisticated.”
Midsummer Night’s Dream is inspired by the Shakespeare play of the same name. Located behind a florist studio in Thonglor, the hidden bar boasts an alluring red velvet interior that is perfect for exploring the creative and creatively-named cocktails in an intimate setting. Something for a more relaxed night out, with a charmingly poetic touch.
Find out more at Midsummer Night’s Dream.
And if you ever visit Mexico, Chef Paco says stop in Yucatan, and in Guadalajara, of course
“Whenever people come to Mexico, I always make them stop by Yucatan. It’s an all-over magical world to discover in terms of food. Of course you should also visit Guadalajara, where I’m from, where we also have lots of tequila for you.”
You heard it here first.
Catch Chef Paco whenever he’s in town at Ojo, The Standard, Bangkok Mahanakhon, 76th Floor, 114 Narathiwas Road, Silom, Bangkok, +66 2 085 8888.