So we talked classic cocktails and cultures with Marco Dongi of Bar Sathorn

The House on Sathorn has a deep, rich history tracing back to 1889, and what would make for a better history lesson than cocktails? Please welcome our history teacher and Bar Manager, Marco Dongi.

Those who frequent Sathorn will be familiar with The House on Sathorn. Amidst the skyscrapers and bustling crowds sits the old, historic building that was built as a residence for a businessman that pioneered the digging of Sathorn canal, and was later used as a hotel, an embassy, and now a popular destination for food and drink. Yes, we learnt that through their cocktail menu.

Manning the stations is Bar Manager Marco Dongi. With experience working in different areas of the world, and an appreciation for local cultures alongside a respect for the classics, we sat down at the bar and asked him about his journey. Here’s how it went.

[Hero and featured image credit: Marco Dongi]

So we talked classic cocktails and cultures with Marco Dongi of Bar Sathorn

How did you become interested in cocktails?

At the beginning, I was working in a club as a PR and organising events. Clubs normally get very busy during the weekends, so during the weekdays I was just staying at home doing nothing — I felt really bored. One day, I asked one of the places where I was organising an event, to stay at the bar to help them work, even for free. I just wanted to do something, you know?

They put me at the coffee side of the lounge as a barista. But I wasn’t a morning guy, and got them to put me in the night shifts. That’s when I got to make cocktails for the first time. Margarita, cuba libre — simple stuff, but it felt really cool. I had always admired bartenders, and getting to do that was an amazing experience.

So what made you make the jump to become a bartender full-time?

I visited Thailand in 2014 with my family and I found Koh Samui very beautiful, so I came back with a friend later to experience the country in a different way. We fell in love with our experiences so much that we wanted to find a job that will allow us to travel all the time.

It was basically us telling each other “let’s keep doing what we’re doing” but in a more serious way. I went back to Milan, and enrolled in a bartending school. I learnt how to use bar equipment the right way, many classic cocktails, and so on.

What is something that many people don’t know about bartending?

Making mocktails is harder than making cocktails. When you work with alcohol, you have a base [spirit] to start with, and it’s super difficult without one. So, it was really challenging when I was working in Saudi Arabia because of their no-alcohol policy.

During their Ramadan month, I went to work at 11pm and got home around 5-6pm because people change their lifestyles.

What is the most underrated classic cocktail?

Difficult to say, because I always respect the classics and consider them to be a base for bartenders to learn. Classics are why we are here now, and it gives us a chance to travel to other places.

Each place around the world has different classics. Getting an Old-Fashioned in Bangkok, in Dubai, in Milan, in the US — getting an Old-Fashioned will mean the same thing to every bartender. It’s how we communicate, it’s how we travel. And if it exists after 100 years with people coming to the bar for it, there’s a reason why.

I think classics have the best structure ever. Think of a Negroni. It’s very hard to find a good Negroni, and the recipe is very simple: one part, one part, one part. Yet the balance and depth of flavour this cocktail has is amazing. The Negroni has been served for a hundred years with this recipe, and it’s still one of the most popular cocktails in the world today.

The Manhattan, Daiquiri, Old-Fashioned — you get to learn its story and its history when you drink it. Perhaps it’s made as a medicine or born from a mistake; it’s always interesting to learn more. Before we had all this equipment and knowledge easy to find today, we paid respect to the people that have discovered these drinks, the ones who tried and made cocktails from scratch, from the taste notes, and the textures they know.

Classics forever. Nothing is underrated, all the drinks are the best.

What were the differences in drinking culture when you later moved to Dubai?

Dubai is a lot more open now [compared to Saudi], even during Ramadan. The restaurants and bars open as normal during that time for the tourists to visit.

Good quality, good people. It’s more expensive, but everything has a balance over there. Dubai will always have a place in my heart.

Any culture shocks when you got to Thailand?

No, I didn’t have any because my father lives in Thailand so I have been in Thailand 6-7 times before. I didn’t expect Bangkok to be beautiful as it is now. Last time I was in Bangkok was 7 years ago, and it was very different from now. I feel like everything — the food, the transportation, the people — everything felt different.

When I came back, I found Bangkok so different, so open and amazing. It’s perfect and I love it.

What’s happening around Bangkok that caught your eye?

There’s a lot of guest shifts in town that gives me a chance to discover the city and meet people of the industry. Everyone has different styles of doing guest shifts, which makes it even more fun. A lot are very drinks-focused, we [at Bar Sathorn] bring in DJs and make it like hospitality night. It’s very party style.

Bar Show was also amazing. A lot of things happening all over the city — you jump from one place to another and never get bored, same goes for Negroni Week. These events help grow the bar industry and let us meet a lot of people all at once.

If not at your own bar, what bars in Bangkok are your favourite?

Depends on my mood. If I want some sort of complex, innovative cocktail, I think Bar Us is my favourite at the moment. I love their approach in how they make drinks, and the bar is stunning.

If I want a classic, I go to Vesper or BKK Social Club. I really love Opium as well, and Matteo is my friend.

To be honest, if I just want a cool experience, I go to Jack’s Bar next to the Shangri-La. It’s next to the river, it feels amazing. You get a beer and have a pad thai. For me, even just getting a beer from 7-11 and sitting on the pavement with the best company ever; for me this is the best bar. Going to a bar is going for the experience. You don’t need to go to the most popular bar. If you feel like you’re having the best time, that’s your best bar.

What advice would you give for people starting out in the bar industry?

The bar world has changed a lot over the years. Ten years ago, being a bartender could mean that you have nothing better to do or no knowledge to pursue other jobs. Now, being a bartender requires a lot of knowledge, a lot of study, a lot of practice. It’s very well-recognised if you keep doing what you do in a good way, and you can create your own style.

My big tip is to create your own style while recognising those who came before you. Be recognisable and be unique. The bartending world is so big, and that’s how people know you. And, of course, travelling. The experience you could have when travelling is just a lot. The full experience of being a bartender comes from talking to people, discovering new ingredients, going to different places.

Being a bartender is not just about making good drinks. It’s about talking to guests and letting your personality shine. It’s about marketing, it’s about communication. Drinks are just one part of it. Anyone can make a good Negroni, but if you have personality, people will remember you for you.

Bar Sathorn is located in The House on Sathorn, 106 North Sathorn Road, Silom, Bang Rak, Bangkok. Open daily from 2.30pm-1am, you can find more information on their website.