As you may already know, chef Bongkoch ‘Bee’ Satongun has been awarded Asia’s Best Female Chef of 2018 by Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants. At the helm of Michelin-starred Paste restaurant in Bangkok, Chef Bee is best known for her bold and authentic approach to traditional Thai cooking and as a pioneering chef in the Thailand’s gastronomic scene.
Focusing on original Thai flavors and textures, with ingredients sourced fresh from the grower and best markets in the country, Chef Bee’s recipes are done with beautiful creative twists and a total attention to taste combinations enough to impress the most discerning diner.
Ambience
Located on the top floor of high-end shopping mall Gaysorn, Paste boasts an interior that echoes the menu’s concept of Thai authenticity and modernity, creating the atmosphere of a traditional Thai house with exposed wooden beams, while contemporary design allows for a lighter, fresher ambience.
Diners will be struck by the sense of space afforded by the high ceilings, natural lights and expansive formal dining area from the moment they enter the restaurant. The rotunda seating area is perfect for private groups, overlooking the bustling Ratchaprasong intersection.
On the cutting edge of international dining trends, the design elements of Paste at Gaysorn take diners on a sensory tour of Thai craftsmanship. The most iconic feature is the organic, swirling ‘silk nest’ sculpture, representing the dynamism and purity of Paste — created by a team of artists from the northern provinces. There are also handmade lampshades, made from natural materials such as paper and bamboo, hanging in the private dining area.
Food
Intrigued by the concept of fine dishes inspired by centuries-old Thai cookbooks from as ancient as King Rama V period, we recently checked out the Michelin-starred restaurant’s signature dishes and were not not disappointed.
We started with the old style hot and sour soup of crispy pork leg, chargrilled shallots, jackfruit seeds, roasted tomatoes in a smoky chicken broth. The pork leg was handled brilliantly with its fat melted in the mouth without a greasy mouthfeel. The soup manifested unique flavours of traditional Thai cuisine, with rounded flavours of hot, sour, sweet and savoury.
For starters, we had tapioca dumplings Royal Project smoked trout, toasted peanuts, mustard leaf and wild sesame — a delightfully addictive creation that immediately snapped our taste buds to attention, setting the tone for the bold flavours to follow. The unconventional dish had us at the layers; the glutinous and sticky steamed wrapper introduced a chewy texture, followed by the crunchy peanuts and smokey trout inside.
A dish that came with eye-catching floral presentation was the chargrilled giant sea prawn salad with northern Thai forest ingredients and tomato. The edible flowers combined the colours of the sea and the land together in one dish, making it a refreshing segue to the mains. The river prawns were fresh and cooked perfectly to retain its original flavour.
Next came the star dish of Paste: curry. Through drawing inspiration from royal Thai cuisine and its secrets, Chef Bee has rediscovered the traditional technique to make authentic Thai curry paste, which are made in-house in the kitchen. We sampled Paste’s signature curry dishes consisted of ingredients from various provinces in Thailand, which all stood out individually with distinctive flavours.
Our favourite was Kaeng Bon with live ocean lobster, elephant ear plant from Chachoengsao Province, salted and cured game fish, kaffir lime and mangrove apple flower. Inspired by a traditional recipe from the Jomthong district in Phitsanulok in northern Thailand, which features fresh coconut milk, curry paste, grilled Kaeng Bon (a rare Thai fish) and elephant ear plants, Chef Bee has created this fish from her childhood and added a modern twist with fresh live ocean lobster and kaffir lime, lifting the humble local produce to new heights.
Verdict
There aren’t too many establishments that can match up Paste’s quality and comfort. Whether or not you justify the cost to your wallet largely depends on how much importance you place on quality of the ingredients, the overall dining experience and the sophisticated flavors. At the end of the day, there is no drawing comparisons to Chef Bee’s endeavour in preserving traditional Thai cooking, while being bold enough to give it a modern, creative spin. It is as inventive as it is homely and comforting, with a story, setting and style that meshes brilliantly into one.
Opening Hours: Mon-Sun 12pm-2pm; 6:30pm-11pm.
Recommended Dishes: Kaeng Bon with live ocean lobster, elephant ear plant from Chachoengsao Province, salted and cured game fish, kaffir lime and mangrove apple flower.
Price: From THB 3,100++ excluding drinks.
Noise Level: Comfortable.
Service: Professional and knowledgeable.
Paste Bangkok, Gaysorn, 999 Ploenchit road, Lumpini, Bangkok, +662 656 1003
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