So we talked bar journeys with Gov Kitibordee of Midlife Crisis

Midlife crisis is real. Whether you have it or not, a good drink always helps. So, we talked to Gov Kitibordee of Midlife Crisis bar, from Chiang Mai to Bangkok.

Gov has always been present as a driving force for Thailand’s cocktail industry. After winning the World Class competition in 2019, Kitibordee “Gov” Chortubtim went on to become an integral part of many bars that trailblazed what we know of the scene today. The propaganda-themed Libération, the charming garden that was Wasteland, Thonglor’s cocktail theatre Backstage — all paved the way to the vibrant cocktail bars that we frequent now. Recently winning the Dewar’s Highball Challenge also proves that Gov hasn’t lost any of his Midas touch.

After founding Midlife Crisis in Chiang Mai and bringing it to Bangkok, we feel we can learn more from him about the ever-changing culture that is the Bangkok bar scene. So, we talked to Gov Kitibordee. Here’s what he had to say.

[Hero and featured image credit: Midlife Crisis]

So we talked to Gov Kitibordee of Midlife Crisis

How did Midlife Crisis come to be?

Life. All the partners including me are now in the midlife stage, and the word “crisis” becomes all the more relatable to everyone after having gone through the pandemic. After brainstorming, throwing in a lot of names, and getting nothing, one of the partners said, “Even coming up with a name is such a big problem. What a midlife crisis we’re having.”

That’s how Midlife Crisis come to be: a healing place for your crisis, whatever that may be. After my previous bar Backstage closed its doors, I wanted to explore somewhere different, and Chiang Mai was the top choice after much deliberation. Now, we’re also back in Bangkok.

What’s the difference between Chiang Mai and Bangkok in terms of drinking culture?

The people aren’t different, but Chiang Mai is just smaller than Bangkok. If you compare the amount of people coming in for a cocktail, of course there’s more in Bangkok.

What I love about Chiang Mai is the community. Because the province isn’t big, you can plan a bar hopping session for one night and you can actually go to every cocktail bar. Start at 6, end at midnight. Grab a drink at this bar, then walk five minutes to another bar, then a 10-minute car ride to the bar on the other side of town. It’s so convenient in Chiang Mai, and that goes for the people of the industry, too. It’s much easier to get to know each other in Chiang Mai.

Refreshing, spirit-forward, sweet-and-sour: What’s the hardest drink to make?

The hard part doesn’t depend on what type of drink it is. It depends on the customer you’re serving. I can say that I make the best Negronis in Bangkok, but it doesn’t mean anything to a customer who loves sweet-and-sours and just wanting a sweet-and-sour. Serving them a Negroni, no matter how perfect, won’t make them appreciate it any bit more than any other Negroni.

We always ask customers what kind of drink they like, if they ask for suggestions. I can talk all night about drinks that I like, but at the end of the day, it’s all about the customer.

So what makes a good cocktail?

Cocktails are a form of communication. That means that as the sender, you also need to understand the receiver’s perspective. Of course, the vibes, the concept, the menu — those all help with how we communicate. If you can serve a cocktail, and they understand what they got without you verbally telling them, that’s good communication.

I used to think too much when it comes to making a cocktail. A menu used to be so complex that it could be laid out into a whole book. But as I served it — communicated it — many customers just took a photo, had a sip, and said “oh, it tastes nice.” The photography part got to me a bit, because I poured my soul into that glass, all the complex notes and technical details, just for it to be paired with a caption like #ChillMondays or something like that.

That’s also how the menu at Midlife Crisis was born: hashtags, captions, and social media.

What’s your favourite classic cocktail?

Chrysanthemum. It’s a martini-style cocktail, low-ABV, and has only three ingredients (dry vermouth, Benedictine, and absinthe). Despite having only three ingredients, it’s so complex yet hard to drink, and easy to control your intake.

What’s an underrated classic cocktail in your opinion?

Brooklyn. It’s hard to find because there’s one liqueur that’s not found in Thailand, and it’s quite hard to substitute. It’s comparable to the Manhattan or the Martinez, and the French aperitif Amer Picon is difficult to find.

What makes for the perfect vibe at a cocktail bar?

You need to feel a sense of life in a cocktail bar. Sometimes it’s the guests talking to each other, maybe it’s two people at the bar making conversation over drinks without knowing each other, or even the bartenders conversing with people in the bar seats — that’s the sense of life that makes a cocktail bar. Even if it’s a simple bar with plastic seats, serve them good drinks and having the place be filled with life, that is the vibe.

Now there are more cocktail competitions for Bangkok bartenders to take part in, what’s your secret to pass through to the last rounds as a competition veteran?

Understand that winning is great, but losing doesn’t make you any less of a bartender. Competitions aren’t about being the best bartender, it’s about being in the right place at the right time — to show that you’re the right person for them.

The secret is all about the mindset; that losing isn’t the end of the world. That way, you have nothing to lose. That way, you can still retain that passion for future competitions that will fit you more.

What are your favourite bars in Bangkok?

If you go to Ladprao, there’s this place called Pathe. It’s not a cocktail bar, but the service mind is through the roof. I can get a beer anywhere, but the beers are ice cold, and they change your mug to another one from the freezer every 10 minutes, even if your order just one bottle of beer. If they see the ice in your mug starting to melt, they come over and change it right away.

I’ve been drinking at Pathe for over 20 years. The charm of Pathe is that it’s full of people having a good time, making conversation with one another. It’s always loud, but never noisy. It’s full of life, and that’s why it’s a refreshing place to be at.

Any advice for bartenders just starting out?

Too late to say run away now [laughs]. I’ve been in the industry for a long time now. I see a lot of changes throughout the year and I also see a lot of passion. It’s a good thing to have, but too much passion can also be damaging.

You can idolise a person in the industry, but you also have to consider what that person had to go through before he got to such a position, all the things they create, and all the steps they had to take. Sometimes you think too much of how to reach the tenth step without even considering how to get over the second. The basic things are the most important, and you can’t rush that no matter how much passion you have. If you do it right, your time will come eventually.

Midlife Crisis BKK, 173, 3 Soi Sukhumvit 16, Khlong Toei, Bangkok. Open daily, 7pm-12.30am. Midlife Crisis CNX, Chang Moi Kao Rd, Tambon Chang Moi, Mueang Chiang Mai District, Chiang Mai. Open Tue-Sun, 5pm-12.30am.