Weekend trip guide: Where to eat and drink in Niseko

Go for the skiing, stay for the drinking and dining. Here’s a week-long itinerary of Niseko restaurants and other worthy foodie haunts.

IN HOKKAIDO, NISEKO’S EXQUISITE japow (its deep, powdery snow) is so well known that it seems to nearly eclipse the gastronomic offerings of the region. In case you didn’t know, Japan’s northernmost island is renowned for its fresh seafood, pulled from the frigid waters surrounding it, alongside the most delectable, flavor-packed fruit and veg, and the sweetest, creamiest dairy offerings. Despite this, in Niseko, whether you ski or snowboard, the focus has always been on the mountain.

Well, I’m here to tell you that it’s okay to go to Niseko with a food-oriented itinerary in hand and zero plans to hit the powder. In fact, that’s exactly what I did, making a hit list of the best Niseko restaurants, cafés and konbini to visit in a week.

My plan was simple: rent a car and traverse the “towns” flanking Mount Niseko with a mission to eat, not forgetting to stop for simple pleasures such as the unbeatable 7-Eleven egg salad sandwich and only-in-Hokkaido Bocca yogurt drinks.

Niseko Ramen Potera

I remember the first few times we went to Niseko Ramen, we had to get there at quarter to 12, to put our name on the list right before the doors opened and be in the first “wave” of customers for the day. These days, the proprietor eschews the glory of the old days, having moved a few towns over, re-emerging as a one-man show. The potato ramen, however, is just as good.

www.niseko-potera.com; open for lunch and dinner every day except Monday and every other Sunday

Yang Shu Ten

Don’t you dare visit Hokkaido and not try Niseko sushi. Make your first stop here, with greatest hits on the menu: tempura, sushi, sashimi, shabu-shabu and more, which is exactly what our group had. Service is brisk and efficient here, making it a great place for group dining in Niseko.

www.y-t.co.jp/yangshuten/en/index.html; open for lunch and dinner, summer and winter

Popi’s & Snow Parlour

Mandala Club made its Niseko restaurant debut in November 2023 with Popi’s, its namesake from Mandala Club Singapore. Resident chef for the season was Esca Khoo, joined by a slew of celebrity chefs, with Ben Cross of Mason in Bali and George Calombaris of Hellenic House Project in Melbourne popping in for short spells.

We loved the pretty restaurant—it was almost like being on a Wes Anderson set—as much as we loved the food. Downstairs at Snow Parlour, we enjoyed a lazy Sunday and an introduction to Fernet Hunter by founder Raphael Holzer, while Candice B wove tunes together.

mandala.club/niseko; open for lunch and dinner daily (winter only)

Ezo Seafoods

Before the pandemic, this fabled Niseko restaurant had queues out the door. Post-pandemic, they have transformed into Ezo Seafoods Fresh, a leaner team, offering premium seafood, edomae sushi, sashimi platters and wine for takeaway only. We got big smiles from the proprietor James, along with fresh oysters, king crab and a killer chirashi overflowing with uni, ikura and fatty tuna—just the ticket after a long day out.

ezoseafoods.com; open from 5:00 pm till 9:00 pm (winter only)

Pierre Herme Afternoon Tea & Hot Chocolate with Fire-Roasted Marshmallows at the Park Hyatt

One of a handful of Niseko cafés serving afternoon tea—here, complete with desserts curated by Pierre Hermé Paris—this was an indulgent treat on our itinerary. We also had marshmallows and hot chocolate by the fire pit, and of course, just visiting the Park Hyatt Niseko is a pleasure in itself.

www.hyatt.com/en-US/hotel/japan/park-hyatt-niseko-hanazono/ctsph/dining/the-lounge#afternoontea; available from 2:00 pm to 5:00 pm daily

Hana1 Cafe

Another institution when it comes to Niseko cafés, but so casual and so fun. Hana1 is a shack at the bottom of the ski lifts in Hanazono, serving everything from piccolo lattes to shots and champagne, melty cheese toasties to lentil stew. Stand out in the snow or have it on the go—your call.

hwww.instagram.com/hana1cafe/; 8:00 am to 4:00 pm daily (winter only)

Milk Kobo

It’s a must-stop for everyone visiting Niseko, so we stopped. Situated at Takahashi Dairy Farm, Milk Kobo sells delicious soft serves, choux puffs, eclairs and more—it’s great for tea time, and on clear days there are stunning views of Mount Yotei over the fields.

www.niseko-takahashi.jp/milkkobo/; 9:30 am to 6:00 pm daily (10:00 am to 5:00 pm in winter)

Gogyo

When the temperature drops in Niseko, ramen is often the answer. We stepped into Gogyo one evening when the temperature was at -10C and steamy bowls of comfort were just the ticket. Sister brand of global ramen restaurant chain, Ippudo, Gogyo goes izakaya-style with a selection of small plates, and a handful of ramen and rice bowls. Their spicy ramen blew our socks off.

www.niseko-village.com/gogyo-by-ippudo; open for lunch and dinner, summer and winter

Dohyo Donuts

Not strictly a Niseko restaurant, but piping-hot mini donuts in the snow! Fried fresh. Cinnamon sugar. What’s not to like?

www.instagram.com/dohyodonuts; open from 1pm till sold out (winter only)

Hirafu Food Trucks

Niseko’s food trucks have expanded in number, design and cuisine over the years. The vibe is fun and casual, so it’s easy to get a few things and chill. We had the pork burgers, mochi and bacon rolls, garlic naan, and soup curry.

Some open from noon, but a majority open from 5:00 pm (winter only)

Chuya Tea House

Tea house by day, bar by night, Chuya makes some killer cocktails led by Asia’s 50 Best Bar Penrose from Kuala Lumpur. We loved this little hideaway at the edge of Niseko-yo.

www.instagram.com/chuya.nisekoyo; open from 3:00 pm till 9:30 pm daily (winter only)

Izakaya Koharuya

In lower Hirafu, this is a great, authentic little izakaya. We had local sake, oysters, octopus, pork belly and chicken yakitori, as well as zangi, Hokkaido-style fried chicken.

www.tablecheck.com/en/niseko-koharuya/reserve/message; open 6:00 pm to 11:00 pm (summer), 6:00 pm to midnight (winter)

Moka

In its first season, Moka Italian Japanese was such a delight. Every dish was a hit, but the seafood spaghetti, uni cream spaghetti and tiramisu need special mention and attention. A Niseko restaurant experience that does fusion right.

www.niseko-village.com/moka; open for lunch and dinner daily, summer and winter

Rakuichi

First we book Rakuichi, then we book our flights (#TrueStory). A 16-seater restaurant, Rakuichi started with Tatsuru Rai hand-making soba on the spot while his mesmerized customers watched on. The menu was: soba cold or hot, duck or no duck. Some call it the “best soba in Japan,” and Anthony Bourdain and Rene Redzepi are amongst the international food personalities to have sung its praises. People would get in line as early as 10:00 am (in subzero temperatures) to be part of the 16 let in for each session.

These days however, its reservations only, and the simple soba meal of yore is a memory, now part of nine-course kaiseki. And yet, the experience of dining within their wooden lodge, in the elegant care of Tatsuru and his wife Midori, is no less magical.

www.rakuichisoba.com; kaiseki lunch and dinner Friday to Tuesday (December through March) or Friday to Monday (April through November)

The Alpinist

On the top floor of Odin Place overlooking the Hirafu junction, we found the Alpinist to be a great vantage point to observe the evening buzz. We had a hankering for fondue and were not disappointed—they gave us a selection of bread, lovely cured meats, pickles and blanched vegetables to dip and twirl in the three-cheese cauldron.

www.alpinistniseko.com; 5:00 pm to 10:00 pm, daily (winter only)

BarGyu+

You hear about a place like BarGyu+, the iconic and instagrammable fridge-door bar, and you think, with all that hype, is it really that good? Well, it is. The drinks, the ambiance, the music— there’s nothing quite like it and it hits right every.single.time. And so we closed our trip with it.

www.gyubar.com; 5:00 pm to midnight (winter only)

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Lede and hero image courtesy of Mandala Club.

The story originally appeared in Travel and Leisure Thailand.