Alongside the sight of glistening chandeliers, reflective rows of spirits, and that giant peacock in the middle, comes the bar manager of Stella. Ladies and gentlemen, Song Terbsiri.
It is hard to miss the opulent vibes and the lively libations Stella offers. The bar inside the Capella Bangkok exudes a luxe riverfront glam, which makes it no wonder why it’s a solid choice to stop by and unwind as you make your way down Charoenkrung. After all, what the bar offers in terms of both hospitality and talent is like no other. In fact, Ben Jonson Hodges of the bar team just won second runner-up in the Diageo World Class 2023 competition.
Stella had been left without a bar manager for over a year, and now with Song Terbsiri stepping in as the new bar manager, it’s very refreshing to see a Thai person take over such an important role at a luxury five-star hotel. Having previously worked at The Loft at the Waldorf Astoria, as well as having years of experience in the industry, Song definitely knows his way around a cocktail.
For this reason and more, we strutted in, ordered a Sazerac, and talked all things hospitality and cocktails with Song Terbsiri. Here’s how it went.
[Hero and featured image credit: Capella Bangkok]
So we talked bars and spirit-forwards with Song Terbsiri of Stella Bangkok
Congratulations on your new role at Stella. Do you feel any pressure stepping up to be bar manager for the first time?
“I’m sure there is pressure for everyone stepping into a new role.” Song answers, “Plus, this is a luxury five-star hotel so that adds just a little bit of pressure. However, I believe in my passion. I believe in myself that I can do whatever this role requires. It also helps that I was welcomed so warmly by the team. Everyone is so nice to me, so that’s why I can’t say that my success is because of me alone. I have very supportive people who support me every step of the way. That’s why the pressure becomes manageable—sometimes completely gone, even.”
Why do you think we don’t see Thai bartenders becoming bar managers of luxury five-star hotels often?
After a bit of pondering, Song answers. “Every place has its own brand, and I understand it plays a part in how we’re selected for a job. People still feel something when they read about people coming in from overseas.”
“But I believe in myself, and that’s why I try to build a community of local bartenders. I do think that luxury five-star hotels are hesitant because they haven’t taken a chance on us, but hopefully this will change more.”
What prompted you to use female bartenders as inspiration for the new menu at Stella?
“The old menu also used females, drawing inspirations from strong female warriors in history.” He elaborates, “I thought that it was a bit hard to relate to for many guests. I still think that it’s a great concept to play off of, so I tried to modernise it—make it connect with the drinks, with the bar itself more. It’s my first ever menu that I am in charge of creating everything because back then I couldn’t be in control as much.”
Song’s new menu features women of the industry: Ada Coleman, the first and only head bartender of the American Bar at London’s Savoy Hotel, and is credited for creating the Hanky Panky; Maria Dolores Boadas, owner of the oldest cocktail bar in Barcelona and Spain’s first female bartender; Rita Hayworth, American actress who inspired the Margarita; and Joy Perrine, one of America’s most trusted bourbon specialists who paved the way for women in the American bar industry.
We proceeded to asked Song which drink he recommends to those that come at Stella for the first time, to which he answered the “Boadas,” an elegant cocktail created with Plantation white rum, yuzu liquor, sake, jasmine rice, and malic acid.
What made you become a bartender in the first place?
“I like drinking,” Song says. It is an answer we can relate to. “But not in that hardcore way you’re thinking. I just like trying new things. I was familiar with whisky and soda, and then I wanted to try other combos. A little bit of this changes that, some more of this and the drink is different—that’s where it gets interesting to me.”
He further explains, “When I was in Australia, I thought the bartenders looked so cool. I wanted to try doing it too, so I started as a bar back as a part time job when I was in high school in Adelaide. I went around gathering new experiences, from a Thai restaurant to a standalone bar, but I got a lot of skills from when I worked with Hilton. I was 18 back then, so I could only work as a bar back as it would be illegal if I were to work as a bartender.”
Is it true that you almost went into music 10 years ago?
As it turns out, Song had a couple entries on SoundCloud, based on some of our research. “I returned to Thailand for university around that time so I had the pleasure to meet a lot of cool people—one of which is a DJ. I was more of an activities kid, and I always wanted to try new things for myself. That’s how I got to use my friend’s DJ set, mix a few songs for fun, and uploaded them on SoundCloud for memories.”
Sweet and sour, refreshing, or spirit-forward?
“Spirit-forward.” Song answers without hesitation, “I think it’s very alluring how someone can utilise resources from the bar and make an interesting spirit-forward cocktail. We put the spirits in the forefront—the vermouth, the gin, and so on, and that’s a good way to learn more about the spirit itself. The Negroni is one of the first cocktails I ever made, too.”
“That, or maybe my forte just isn’t in sweet and sours.” He laughs.
What makes a good spirit-forward?
First and foremost, the temperature. “The temperature of the drink is very important, especially in a hot country like Thailand. Drinks are almost always served cold, and you don’t want things to melt into each other as they’re being served, so nailing the temperature is key.”
“Then, you need to pay attention to the balance and the dilution. Of course, all of these play a part in making a cocktail a good cocktail, but I hold the temperature in very high regard.”
What’s a classic you want people to know more about?
“The Vieux Carré,” the bar manager answers. “It’s quite a simple drink, but it has an extra element by having the Cognac. Many people know the Negroni, Old-Fashioned, or Manhattan, so I want to introduce the Vieux Carré to add to their drinks repertoire. It’s also one of the first cocktails I learnt how to make as a bartender.”
Do you have any advice for the people just starting in the bar industry?
“People come in and they expect first to be able to make drinks.” Song explains, “That’s not wrong at all—there’s a charm in how we stir and shake. However, I want to urge people to focus more on the hospitality aspect first. How we communicate and interact with customers is very important. We shake and stir everyday and we become better at how we make drinks anyway, but whoever walks through the door needs to feel welcomed.”
“People don’t come to bars just to drink, they come for the experience, for the ambience, for the hospitality. You nail that, and they come back again. That’s how you succeed.”
Stella is located on the ground floor of Capella Bangkok Hotel, and is open daily from 6pm-12am. You can find more information at Stella.
Vichayuth Chantan
Digital Writer, Drinks and Dining
Writer by day and skinny legend by night, Vichayuth focuses on the hospitality industry of Thailand. You'll often find him at a bar finding new friends, discovering new drinks, and silently judging you from across the room.
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